The Maori capital, the city has steam appearing all over, in people's gardens, from drains, boiling mud pools fenced off in parks and in our campsite. We were in a cabin with a view of boiling mud pools and the whole city smells sulphurous. We walked through the giant redwood forest then took the treetop walk as darkness fell. Giant lanterns light up at dusk and although we didn't see any glow worms, the Illuminated forest floor made up for it.

Next day we drove out to the Blue Pool, a tranquil setting amongst pine forest. In the afternoon we arrived at Te Puia, the Maori cultural centre, for a tour of the Gy-sirs (not Geezers). There was also a Maori song and dance show followed by a Hangi banquet. Hangi ovens are made in the ground, food cooked over hot stones. This requires constant attention so ourswascooked in hotel ovens. The best bit was seeing the geysers after dinner, lit up in the dark.