12.02.08 Anjuna

Had our last breakfast at Palolem at a cafe on the Beach called Fernandoes. We are now in the state of Goa and here we have the area that was ruled by the Portugese from mid 16th century until they were finally thrown out in 1961 unbelievably. The portugese were keen to control the spice route from the east. Their influence shows everwhere including the name of our breakfast cafe. Everywhere we go the names are Santos Fernandoes etc. We catch a bus to the city of Margao where we swapped for another to Panaji the capital cityof Goa, and here rather than having to take several more buses we opted for a taxi to Anjuna where we arrived by 2pm. We got dropped at the beach and wandered with our packs in sweltering heat for two hours looking for accommodation before heading away from tyhe beach about 1km and found a lovely spot, Manali Guest House, at a reasonable 350R price. Had a wee skirmish with the tuk tuk man but Julia sorted him and he actually came back and apologised later. Anjuna's claim to fame is it's weekly (Wednesday) flea market and being Tuesday was the reason there was little accommodation. We found a so called German bakery where we had fresh juices and a late lunch before Pizza at Blue Tao wher Pete the Aussie was entertaining. The market attracts huge numbers both buying and selling and including hippies who have been here since the 60's and never left. Some of them try and make a few rupees selling their handiwork here plus all the other usual crafts available through India, from Tibet, and Kashmir. We spent a good part of thge morning there and it was overwhelming before hiring 2 scooters and heading up north with all the other mad hatters on two wheels. We headed up to Vagator beach and saw Chapora including the port which had some modern fishing boats then lunch at a very slow cafe full of hippies lots of whom looked like craggy old rolling stones members. Then scootered further to the south to a beach called Baga. Well we couldn't believe what we saw ...thousands of holiday makers sunbathing like beached whales, in various stages of pink, jetskis everywhere, kites behind boats, banana boats ..the whole works..yes this is where the jumbos fly in from Europe and thousands spend a week or 2 here get scorched, licquored up fed and watered with a bit of sex thrown in and head home. I walked on the beach for a good hour and there was no end to the masses. Oddly enough the locals were also making an impression here with a more liberal view to bathing. By the time I returned Julia had scootered so I pillioned Paul back to Anjuna (the ride of his life..lol) More Prawn curry on the beach (yawn yawn) as we planned my last few days. We had all wanted to see Old Goa so organised a Taxi through our guest house family and headed off the next morning to a spice plantation which was very interesting, just seeing how they grow, pollinate and what uses they have besides in cooking. The tour included a traditional buffet lunch and a swig of VERY potent cashew licquer, a sniff of which almost sent me under the table.

Our taxi then took us to Old Goa...another world heritage site... this place was once larger than Lisbon or London...but now has only been left with a few imposing churches and cathedrals (16th and 17th century Portugese Gothics) and according to the guide books an awful lot of atmosphere..well the buildings were there but the atmosphere was awful so all in all a bit disappointing and rather than have my farewell dinner there we headed back to Anjuna beach for the night. We did however see the remains of St Francis Xavier (I can confirm he was a wee man!)

Paul and Julia took me out for dinner tonight and it was graet. I had Pomfrit fish grilled in a garlic and spice sauce with salads etc..I wasnt going to risk anything dodgy for tomorrow's travel! It was a memorable end to another great day but somewhat sad being my last night with P & J. The heavens opened in the middle of dinner for about 5minsutes, just long enough for everybody to take shelter from the outside tables but it tokk nothing away from a memorable evening.