There was hissing, chirping, clicking and hooting all around. The forests noise was like a deafening wall of white noise in the eerie morning dawn light.

I stood as still as possible frozen in mid step as the snake slithered with surprising speed across my path. Freaking adders... Hate them!

Using all my senses I strained to detect any more unsuspecting visitors. My hairs all stood on end, goosebumps littered my arms more and more with every step. Would something else jump out and attack my naked leg or fall on me from above? I pushed on ahead zig zagging my way through the dense undergrowth heading for what was locally known as "the rock." A huge natural obelisk tower up above me. My key problem just now was that the trees overhead were so dense I'd lost it. My worn with swear & grime dog eared tourist map about as much use as a toddlers drawing in my hands. No scale, no north point... No chance.

I pass a long deserted church and send a silent prayer up to God. Will he understand if I speak in English if it's Greek Orthodox?

I push on into the forest and slam straight into a giant rock face. Hello Rocka. I've made it to my destination. 5 hours climbing, not a sole in sight, man vs nature. I have never been so afraid in my life! If I was to disappear now.... Would they ever find the body?

9 hours and a load of hiking later....

There is a cry. A sort of attention seeking grunt then cough. The crowded taverna all turn in one motion to meet the new comer wondering in from the darkness into the yellowish light. The Greek Dom had returned. He slowly swaggers in swaying his distended colossal bulk. He clasps hands with the nearest brother known as Carlos winks at the next, fist pumps number 3 then strolls up to Mario on the kebab burner and embraces him like a long lost relative. As he turns all heads bow, eyes lower and all
nod in respect before he walks to the head of the table and slowly lowers himself into position. Ma Famia. As his considerably butt hits the chair and gut hits his thighs, chat and normality continue amongst the taverna. The Dom does not need to order. A beer arrives within seconds in his left hand of course , the prime meat is laid out upon the spit and he reclines. A slight click touches my ears as he spins his rosary in his right hand. I fear they are bullets. He lights the largest cigar i have ever seen despite it being against the law and pushes his glasses up onto the receding hairline of his head. "Alores, all is good"he erupts and bellows out a full mouth of smoke. The music begins and normal service resumes. It appears tonight after getting my first nod of recognition from the Dom (the first despite returning for my third night) I have been accepted as one of the brotherhood of Kastraki. (Or just an annoying part of the furniture/enterage) naturally the next person to be served no matter the order... is the Dom. Would you mess with that?