We were both woken before 5am by the Koreans having little regard to their fellow campers, I layed in a half sleep also listening to the snoring whilst trying to figure out what the weather was doing. Liz didn't want to stay another night in the park camping and we had no food left anyway. If we slept in we would miss the possible sunrise casting the torres pink and also risk missing the bus back - we got up. We grabbed the last of the cerial and headed out. It...

It was a cold clear night, the mountains that were hidden yesterday were now visible and gleaming in the sun. We had little time and energy to go up the valley to re-explore - today was going to be a killer. The intention was to get as close as possible to the iconic torres, as much a icon to Patagonia as the pyramids are to Egypt. The first section was an easy 2hrs east following the lake. Knowing it was going to be a long day we pressed on as much as possible....

I woke determined to have a shower, we were paying for a camp site that had them and after two days of hard treking really felt that I could do with one. Three showers for a hundred people and no que - I couldn't believe my luck. This diddn't last long, the luke warm shower turned into more of a luke cold shower once I got under it. In the tropics this would be fine but it was grim doing this in Patagonia. The day was overcast again but like yesterday perked up ...

To anybody that has only stayed in a house or hotel, camping would perhaps come as a shock. Sure if you have a car and only have to lug your stuff as much distance as the width of your tent then camping could be very comfortable. You can buy tent heaters, sinks, toilets and stretcher beds similar to the luxury safari camps in glossy brochures for Africa. If you have to carry everything you need for five days then you go into the minimalist realms of real camping....

We got up early to catch the bus to the Torres del Paine national park. If you remember it was this park we were prevented on getting to due to the general strike. Nothing eventful on the bus journey, loads of Reas and the same bleak landscape that you always see between the highlights. The scenery once we caught the boat got pretty good but the weather was normal - grey and horrible. Our bags were loaded with everything we need over the next five days. Food, ...