A long time since my last update, but that's partly because of where I went. For those unfamiliar with Thai term dates, this is sort of a holiday period in that there isn't very much going on or anyone around but you still sort of have to be there but not if anyone notices and don't say anything but nudge nudge have you signed in. Plus I needed a new visa, and was going to Laos anyway for a conference with the education faculty.

So - first stop is Vientiane. I was moving out of my apartment and trusting my possessions to my friend Seamus, but unfortunately my plan to meet him in the morning was foxed when I had a text wake me up at 2am asking if I could be ready to go to Vientiane at 4am the next morning (despite being at the top of the morning, I doubted this was convenient for Seamus). So I had to rush and pack everything and hope it would be OK and I was off to Laos. I'm about to find out if this worked or not as he forgot to pick up a box of stuff from the room, so hopefully the condo people kept it otherwise Claire is without her piano books and I'll be without any of my degree certificates.

Anyway, we got to Vientiane nice and early. It's a beautiful city that follows the Mekong river. For all people say that Laos is undeveloped, I thought it was very comfortable and modern. The real benefit is that you can walk pretty much anywhere, and there's a great night market too. French food is everywhere, and the beer is good and not as gassy as the Thai stuff. They're really embracing capitalism too as any shop or bar will accept payment in pretty much any currency. I once paid for a taxi in Chiang Mai with 2 bottles of beer which I thought was pretty special, but in Laos you'd get change in a bag of lentils and a couple of Drachma.

I had to arrange a visa for China, but I only had the night as I had to meet the bus at 8am at the border the next morning to go on to Luang Prabang. Normally this would be a hassle, but for only 18 US dollars I found a company (it was actually a woman in an ethnic jewellery form, who has so far been the best visa consultant I've found) who took my passport and a photo and then promised to get my visa and put my passport on a plane to Luang Prabang to save me a trip back. Like when Bono had his hat flown to a concert. This saved me 4 days and 2 ten hour bus trips, so it was well worth it - a top tip for travellers. Although there are also companies in Luang Prabang (most currency exchange places) who will send your passport down for you and then bring it back with a visa, and they don't charge much more. There was even one in Luang Nam Tha which is really far north, but he charged $50. Any of these are better than trying to get it in Bangkok as they don't disrupt your travel plans, so that's my top tip from this one.

Another is to try Laos massage. With a high number of taxi drivers offering me either cannabis or Laos girls (more than were offering taxi services. It was like a logic puzzle, if you don't want girls then you must want weed, if you don't want weed you must want girls, if you want neither then you must want me to follow you down the street repeating these options with increasing volume), I was sceptical about finding a decent place but they seemed very professional and gave a great Swedish-style massage. I still prefer traditional Thai, but it was good to get a European style massage at an Asian-style price. I had some great crepes and middle eastern food too. For someone who doesn't like cities, Vientiane is great because it has all the stuff you want in a capital but is really small and easy to get around. A very relaxing place, and definitely one I'll go back to. Next stop, Luang Prabang. By which time I'll also know what's happened to my box!