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Wednesday
Up at 5am to catch the bus to Pamplona for the running of the bulls at 8. Walk through the main square and the party is still going on from the previous night. Utter carnage, drunk people everywhere and so much litter! The clean up crew were using a high pressure hose as their weapon of choice. They literally walk all the streets and wash them down with disinfectant and prepare the town for the next onslaught on partying.
We walk the bull run for Margot to get a feel for it, the crowds were gathering on "dead mans corner" and on the balconies for front row action. The runners were pushed back into a small square waiting for the gun. Gibbo and josh were taken out of the pack by a police officer for not having the correct footwear on. Liam was left alone on the run but managed to get in the Stadium after the first wave of bulls. There are two wave of 6 bulls ( 6 bulls 6 steers - the steers are used in the arena in the am and the bulls in the fight in the evening I.e the bulls die) on a street of approximately 800m. The bulls used in the run are the bulls that are later used in the bull fighting. A close to captivity stadium, the crowd were cheering on the steers that were brought out one by one. The steers had the tips of their horns cut off and the crowd had their chance to be their own bull fighter. The video commentary from Margot was amazing???? (Lot of F**ks and OH MY GOOOOOOOD) But the photos and footage showing some major tumbles with one guy having to be dragged out due to being knocked out cold by a steer. The three boys stayed in the arena for 3-4 steers each (out of 6) having close encounters with a steer. After finding everyone, we go off to buy tickets for the bull fight later on in the evening and see the local hospitably. Ticket scalpers were around everywhere with many wanting double the actual price for the nights entertainment.
Bit of a mission filling in the day, mainly just waited at the bus stop but we left the boys and did a bit of touristy stuff. Wandered the streets and watched all the street performers and partiers. There are no rules here everyone is drinking their 3 euro supermarket sangria from the bottle in the street and there is just a massive party 24/7 for the entire festival.
Came back to camp, got a feed and jersey ( which we didn't need!!!- rest of day had been cold but evening was hot)
Was a bit nervous about watching the bull fighting and what would be involved but not wanting to miss out on some culture and see what the fuss is all about we gave it ago. Because we had prepared ourselves for the worst it wasn't really a shock and we were lucky enoug to sit next to some Spanish guys who took us under their wings and explained it all to us. Here is some stuff we learnt:
The general jist of a bull fight is
- bull gets let into the arena with a ribbon speared into its back, guessing to start it off angry. And also for a target for the matador.
-several matadors tease the bull for a while and tire it.
-then the bull fighter stands in the middle and catches the bulls attention so it runs and him and he spears it with two bright spears while narrowing missing it (the aim is for him to get as close to the bulls horns without them touching him)
- then two horses come out surrounded by padding which was probably the scariest part for Margot. The riders had big long spears and the bulls literally run into these horses, which don't even flinch they just took the force and lean in, while the rider stabs the bull in the back of the neck. The horses get fully lifted of the ground and don't even care.
- the bull fighter gets his little red cape out which his sword is in the middle of and teases the bull some more so it it totally knackered. He then sticks it in the back of the neck through to the heart I'm guessing, it pretty awful
-the matadors come and kindve corner the bull and make it dizzy Before it sits down and then that's it, the bull fighter comes in and finishes him off . and a couple had to be stuck twice as they must've missed or the bull didn't go down but they were generally spot on. Some of the bulls were a bit different to above but that was the general procedure.
Other stuff we learnt:
-one of the three bullfighters we watched (they killed two bulls each) was the most famous bull fighter in Spain. He has one eye because one time he was kneeling and waving his cape and the bull gored him through the cheek.
-Northern Spain isn't actually into bull fighting, most the bull fighters come from Southern Spain and tour the country . It is far more serious in the south than north , which just use it as an excuse to party. Which is very obvious in the Arena. Where we were sitting was party central. There is buckets of sangria everywhere and most of it ends up going all over the people in front of them. They choose one person to sing happy birthday to and everyone throws their drinks on them (as in happy birthday the drinks are on you.)
-one half of the arena is partying, the other is very serious, there is corporate box things and government officials, the night previous to ours the president attended. In our section was brass bands and some people dressed up,pretty much like sevens.
-For the first three bulls everyone drinks and the remaining three everyone eats, and sure enough after the third bull everyone pulls out their baguettes and Spanish omelet (tortilla potata or something ) which by the way is Margot's dream food. So freaking amazing. And then the eating turns into a food fight pretty much.
-the meat from the bulls is not wasted,it is hung for a day then is sold in the restaurants where you can buy "toro" . Apparently it's very tough -not surprised!!
-if the bull fighter does a good performance he gets to keep an ear from the bull. If you get the two ears from your bulls your pretty much a legend. The guy got his because one of the bulls gored him and he kept going so he was carried around the arena. And he was the winner. And he got to begin the big party in the arena after the fight.
-the guy that got gored, is seen as "connected" to the bull now I.e blood to blood. Not sure what that means but just something we were told. Because he got gored and carried on he is far more respected. Bull fights are considered to be to the death and if he had given up he would've got ripped by the crowd.
Afterwards we cruised the streets which were in party mode, everyone singing and dancing and bands everywhere. Amazing atmosphere. In the main town square they locals were doing Spanish dancing so we gave it a go, not highly,successful but so much fun!
Then their was the biggest fireworks display we have every seen. It lasted 20minutes and was so loud and bright.
Pretty bloody good day of culture and tradition had by all!!
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