Everthing is more extreme in Sumatra. The trees are taller, the jungles thicker, the animals more exotic, the hiking treacherous, the weather more volatile; it the most exciting place I've ever been to. Just taking a public bus is an adventure, which in our experience consisted of 40 people crammed onto a karaoke-blasting minibus, with more than a few people even choosing to travel on the roof. Margaret, Neil and I were crammed like sardines for 3 hours while a tropical storm drenched our bags, which were tied to the roof of the bus as well. Neil got the worst end of the deal, as he was forced to sit next to teh burqa-clad, over-weight elderly woman who believed she was entitled to the whole seat.

Indeed, Sumatra is uncomfortably rugged. The roads are windy and often unpaved, the plumbing system is archaic, generally consisting of gravity squatter toilets with no automatic flusher. Sinks and soap are a luxury in restaurants and guesthouses, as are clean accomodations with screens in the windows. However, the amazing countryside, deliciously spicy food, thick jungles, and unbelievable animals make it worthwhile.