We leave at 6am on this 80 nautical mile cruise, south to Hiva Oa. Rather than anchor at the principle town of 'Atuona' in 'Traitors Bay', we have decided to go to the smaller neighboring Island of 'Tahuata', as it supposed to have less rolling swell in the anchorage.
The wind is blowing constantly about 20 knots in a slight swell but JB has not found her sea legs yet and feels a bit nauseous. When we arrive at Tahuata the sea is flat calm and to our surprise the Island does not seem that small. We anchor in a beautiful bay named 'Hanamoenoa'. There is a white sandy beach coconut trees high lush mountains and again a rugged coast. The water is clean and clear. We immediately go for a swim. We also snorkel while Paul looks for crayfish.
The have battered black fin shark for dinner, it is delicious. After dinner we watch the film 'Rush', about Nicky Lauder and James Hunt, the 1970's formula one Grand Prix. A great film.
Thursday. We have a beach walk and swim. Today we are visiting the village of 'Baitahu', in the bay of the same name. This is a very historic place as the Spanish landed here in 1595. Also, the famous battle of the Marquesas was fought here in 1842, when the French finally took control of all the Polynesian Islands. There is a very nice church built in 1995 with stunning stained glass windows and constructed with river stones and timber, Polynesian
style.
There is a very neat village sparsely populated. There are only 600 people on the whole Island. They have a very good traditional community centre and museum. We met a rare English speaking local 'Solange Mote', who was very helpful. We enquired about wood carvings and she advised us to return after a village visit so she could arrange to get the artisans to show us their work.
The village had neat streets and homes, fruit gardens, wild large mango trees and bread fruit trees. Everyone is friendly especially with our little french.
On our return to the community centre, we discover that the artist is Solange's husband,'Moise'. The carving and jewelry is largely of horse bone, Marlin bills and wood. They are all beautifully handcrafted works and MB buys a stunning necklace and what looks like a
short spear from ebony.
We ask Solange does she know a fishing guide and she answers yes, its her husband Moise, who seems to be good at many things. "Will he take us fishing today", "yes" she replies. 'How much", nothing she says and on top of this they want to give us fruit. It seems to be exchange for buying the carvings and we later learn that the Islanders love to trade without money. Old clothes, shoes and glasses are very welcome here. We arrange to meet Moise at 3pm for a few hours fishing.
Paul has heard that at the next bay 3 nautical miles away, they are the real experts in wood carving. We venture to the town of 'Hapatoni'. Again it is a very neat village. We come across two men carving the most exquisite paddles. They show us in sign language to go along the path where we find a large market shelter full of ladies with tables full of the most fantastic carvings and jewelry in bone, marlin bills and wood.
MB bought a short wooden and bone paddle with beautiful Polynesian style carvings. We felt sad in some ways that there were not that many visitors to buy these beautiful works of art and craft. We had more shark for lunch (wow)
At 3pm we pick up Moise. He seemed to indicate to us in French that we would be fishing in 2-3 meters of water.
Our first spot he takes us to is in 50 meters, then 70 meters. Our rods run out of line. He has a large spool of 500 meters, with thick 80 kilo line. His sinker is a piece of large rusted Reo-bar. We did not get a bite. We chase birds and try other spots and we see he is becoming frustrated as we have nothing so far. Then we hit the spot. Spangled emperors, coral cod etc.etc.
After 1.5 hours we had enough for a good feed. w/e take Moise to BP for a beer. He gives us more fruit he has in his back pack and we trade for wine and t-shirts. He and Solange are coming to Melbourne in 2015 so we have swapped our address with them.
we have fresh baked fish for dinner with many fillets left for tomorrow night.
Friday. The wind is blowing stronger this am. We are taking the tender across the passage to the neighboring Island Hiva Oa. It is about 5 nautical miles in pretty choppy seas. Our destination Atuona in traitors, (Vaitahu), bay.
We tie up at concrete steps with a rear anchor out due to the surge. It is a 5km walk around the bay to the town, which we understand has a supermarket, banks and the Gauguin Museum. Gauguin is also buried here together with singer Jacques Brel.
We hitchhike into town as suggested by a french yachtie from the bay. We are picked up by a local woman who explains to JB where to find places of interest.
We are concerned that the museum may close as it is now 12 midday. Wehn we approach th museum sign says closed 11 am Saturday. We are very disappointed by as we approach and the doors are open and people around we realise it is only Friday so it is open.
It is a very good museum housed in a Polynesian style building where the display covers his life and thoughts in both English and French. All of his works on display are reproductions, but demonstrate a good representation of the works over the 15 years he lived here between 1890-1905. We learn he was a very troubled person suffering from depression, suicidal tendencies and alcoholism. He had syphillus when he died at 56.
His early life was a career in business until he took up art full time. He was self taught and a very good friend of Vincent Van Gough. We saw that almost every major world museum has collected his works.
His home is in the gardens of the museum, with a display of early 20th century photographs of life in the Islands.
We find an ATM as we are running out of local cash, Pacific French Francs. We shop at a well stocked supermarket and find a small colourful cafe by the roadside where we have lunch of salad and Wahoo.
We then walk back to the tender. Our return crossing is easier than the very rough ride in, as the wind has abated.
We refresh with a swim on the beautiful beach of our bay.
Back on board MB has finished his book on W.L. Baillieu which he has really enjoyed. We have loved this anchorage with beautiful beaches, mountains, nice villages and people, plus amazing arts and crafts.
JB and Mick
The town is again neat. There are a few more people around especially in the small produce market, which also appears to be selling cooked lunches.