We have a four hour cruise south to Fatu Hiva. This is the most southerly island of the Marquesas and the least populous, with 650 inhabitants.
It is a very high Island up to 1100 meters above sea level. It's steep cliffs are not easy to access and there are only 2 sheltered bays located on the west coast. We will anchor in 'The Bay of Virgins' or 'Hanavave Bay'. Wow what a back drop to this small village, with lush green rugged high mountains.
On our way to the village we pass fishermen using buoys with long lines into 100 meters. We understand they are getting Tuna.
As we anchor a small tinny with three locals approaches. They want to trade fruit for clothes, shoes, glasses, hats, perfume etc. We promise to go into the village with things to trade.
MB and Paul go to see what the fisherman are catching on the long lines under the buoys. They have yellow fin Tuna that they are happy to sell for 500 Pacific Francs a kilo, or $6 Aus per kilo.
We buy a 10 kilo freshly caught fish for $60.
When we get back to BP a couple of locals are tied up to the boat in their 'tinny'. They have 'Tapa' and wood carvings. Tapa is the ink drawings made on tree bark. The bark is from Mulberry, Banana, Breadfruit and other trees. This Island is famous for this craft. One of the offerings from the two men 'Soapy' and 'Jacques'. We like one in paticular and the crew buy others. They are made by Jacques wife 'Desiree'. It must take them hours to produce. They then display wood carvings. MB buys one, then jacques wants to give us another plus carvings for t-shirts etc. He trades a wonderful carved catamaran which he gives to Paul who is very happy. They show us more carvings for trade for clothes and then fishing hooks.The wood is either ebony or rosewood and very beautifully crafted.
The first group who wanted to trade, we meet on shore. We trade more clothes glasses, perfume etc for their fruit. They have so much as it is all in season.
On the pier is another man also a carver. Although we tell him we already have many, MB buys a lethal looking carved wooden axe with a stone head.
He then wants to trade more for fishing hooks lures etc. For this we get a Tiki, and he invites us to his home where he has more carvings on display. We have to say no but he give s us a carved Kava cup for a few fishing lures and seems happy.
Desiree and Jacques have invited us to their home to get fresh coconut milk and custard apple fruit, to fulfill their trade.
After lunch we cruise to 'Omoa Bay' to see if they have a larger selection to Tapa. On shore there are numerous large Tiki statues along the waterfront. A group of young locals relaxing under a tree, greet us. We ask them about Tapa. A plump, short girl tells us the artisans gallery is closed but she knows where we can find good tapa.
After a walk through this neat small town, we arrive at a house which turns out to be her mother in law's,who is a Tapa artist selling a good selection at not high prices. We buy several. Her husband is a wood carver, so we are presented with a number of items that we have seen before. MB tries to trade some jewelry for a beautiful catamaran, but no deal. He buys a great looking mask and gets one free!
Back on board at 4 pm we leave for a long 3 day trip to the Tuamotu's. The weather is fine and we catch a beautiful 12 kilo 'Skip Jack Tuna' just before dark. It is a rich red meat and supposed to be one of the best for Sashimi.
Dinner is fresh yellow fin tuna sahimi, with pan-fried tuna fillet with local tropical vegetables and fruit.
We settle in for the start of our nightly episode of 'Downton Abbey'
JB and Mick