This was by far our favourite part of the journey. Not only did we meet some Peregrinos en route but the walking, despite being the longest distance, did not seem as difficult. Jean-Pierre, a French Pilgrim we met briefly in Betanzos and would meet at the Albergue later that day, explained that as we put the mileage through our bodies that they adapt accordingly and we begin to feel stronger.

Craig and I put it down to the fact that we didn't have a hangover for the first time and were well rested.

For a paltry 3 Euros the hotel offered up a proper breakfast of cereals, breads, toast, fruit juice, cooked ham and cheese, 'magdalenas', tea, coffee and fruit. Let's just say we ate well and stocked up as much as we could fit into our pockets for the road ahead! For those of you interested, 'magdalenas' - are small sweet cakes that are rich-tasting, but light and fluffy. The Spanish traditionally eat them at breakfast with "café con leche," and they are said to have originated in Aragón. "Magdalenas" are not often prepared in homes today, but are sold in supermarkets and bakeries everywhere.

We hit the road by 8.30am (early for us two louts) and came immediatley across 5 Spanish Pilgrims who were just leaving town too. We greeted each of them a 'good morning' and set off - up yet another killer hill. These hills, despite being mentioned in the guide, really are taxing, especially after the mammoth breakfast we had just scoffed! The Spaniards moved ahead of us and we took some great snaps of the countryside, a farmer with a flock of sheep as well as the two of us in a corn field...well it had to be done! It was only now that we also realised the number of small stones which people left on top of the waymarks which hopefully someone will be able to explain. I added one myself and wished for a pain free day...chaffing is not a laughing matter!!!

I shot some video along the road towards our lunch stopping point, Bar Julia. I hope to be able to add them onto this site, after I have trimmed them down a bit and muted the bad language! Only joking of course!!!

We passed through several forested areas and one climb in particular was barely passable by two pilgrims on bike who had to take the load off the bike to be able to push it up the hill. The group of three Spanish (from Madrid and Canary Islands) passed us at one stage and went off the main route, we presumed, in search of lunch...so we ploughed on, eventually arriving at Bar Julia. Lo and behold, guess who were already sitting there with their feet up...Yes, the three amigos, beer in hand and lunch already ordered! I was raging, they had taken a short cut and never thought of telling us! Buitres!!! (Vultures)

Craig munched through a Chorizo and Cheese bocadillo, I think I had Calamares! Not sure right now but it was all good...then again I'd have eaten the table had our young chef Paco (Julia's son we assumed) not done such a sterling job. Aside we had a few chips, Spanish Peppers (soo nice) and again something else which has surpassed my memory banks...must have been hungry! A couple of bottles of Fanta Orange and Coke were also downed relatively quickly and when they hit us with a bill under 15 Euros it was actually embarrassing. We tipped well and followed the three amigos up...yes, you got it...another massive hill!!!

We eventually caught and passed our 'secret camino keepe'r friends at a water refuelling station where we were gutted to see that the water was 'No Potable'...not treated and consequently drank at your own risk. Happily we turned to our Forum Guide which pointed us off track a few hundred metres to Bar Vizono! Now, as we were fresh as daisies, the beers flew down and it was a real drag to leave the veranda enjoying the late afternoon sun! A mangy cat hounded us for a while before bolting off upon the call of its owner and scaring the pants off the two of us...poor thing must only get fed once a week and boy, Tiddles didn't need a second call. We stocked up with water, got our stamps and reluctantly hit the road again. I asked the grumpy aul lad behind the bar if we needed to retrace our steps back down to the sign (as stated in the guide) but he told us 'NO' just walk straight out the front and keep going...he was right and within a few hundred metres found a trusty yellow arrow pointing us the way ahead.

Somewhile later we found the Camino Ingles from Ferrol where it meets the road from A Coruna. The route from A Coruna is a shorter version of the Camino which at under 100kms does not qualify you for a Compostela/Certificate. I'm certain it is a lovely walk and from our day spent with Paul A Coruna is yet another place to visit should you ever feel pulled to this wonderful part of Spain. I took a bit of video to show both sides of the waymark with the pointer on each side and hopefully I can get it uploaded on here soon...(once I figure out how to edit videos). It was lucky I did take the video as a kilometre further down the road Craig realised that he had lost his/my hat. I was able to stick on the video and confirm that Craig last had it back where the two roads met and I retraced my steps and found it.

Shortly afterwards we arrived at the Albergue where we were greeted by the 'Hospitalero' Benino. We discussed continuing on for another few hours towards Siguiero but he talked us out of it...thankfully. He said a better option was to rest up here for the night, have some food and make an early start in the morning. If we left at 7am we could be in Siguiero by 12.00pm which would only leave us 16k to the finish line. We paid our 5 euro and got our 'Credencial' stamped before he showed us around. This albergue was great but we had read that we were some distance from the next town and the thought of a 6k walk in and out of town to get dinner was not appealing...Benino produced a menu, told us to order and that our food would be brought to us in a taxi. I ordered Ensalada de Pasta, Bistec con Patatas, Tarta de Santiago and a glass of wine...it arrived promptly at 8.30pm as promised and we feasted...Craig had Ensalada Rusa (Russian salad), hake with chips and we shared a jug of 'vino tinto'...lush! Bread accompanied our feast and we decided to leave the Santiago Cake for breakfast in the morning.

Showered, fed, watered...there was only one thing for it... a few beers of course in the company of Jean-Pierre from La Cote d'Azur who was walking with his sister, some Spanish Pilgrims and of course my mate Benino. We put the world to rights before turning in early for the big day ahead!

Great day spent with lovely people and the next day's excitement of seeing the spires of the Cathedral as we marched into Santiago the next day accompanied us to bed...I slept well that night!