So we set off as early as always around 7.00am up and out of Deba. The walk is up through a forest trail and we were rising with the sun as it lit up Deba behind us. First stop for water refills was at the 'Ermita de El Calvario de Maia' where we were passed by a couple of Spanish gentlemen who we would meet again as the day progressed. They set off ahead at blistering pace which did worry us a little as tonight we would be staying at our first Albergue and at this stage we were not 100% sure just how many people would be making the same journey as us today.

This is the most hilly stage of our Camino so far and it was tough going for all of us, the boys especially. We played games and sang songs as we walked along ensuring to keep the boys ' minds occupied but generally they were great. You will see from the videos attached just how we ascended into the lovely village of Olatz where we took another break.

Another forest section with more ups and downs soon followed arriving at one stage at 500 metres altitude where we crossed into the county of Vizcaya. Eventually we arrive at a farm called 'Caserio Arnoate' where we have lunch and bathe our feet in the water...luckily we did as shortly afterwards we had to ascend the 'leg-breaker' section and finally descend in the rain into the town of Markina-Xemein. The photos of the stones in the church is called San Miguel de Arretxinaga from the 18th Century.

We finally check into the Albergue which was staffed by the nicest people we have met so far along our path. Very cramped inside but a bed at least. We shower and head into town which are on their 'Fiestas' and we are treated to Basque Games. There is a huge crowd in the centre and everyone enjoys the games before we head back for something to eat and an early night...

...well what was supposed to be an early night but unfortunately the two pilgrims we met that morning stay out for one too many and keep us all awake all night with their snoring. Not knowing the etiquette I keep my cool (just about) and help the kids get to sleep...luckily for them they were up and away early next morning and were not seen again. Since coming back and reading my favourite forum (http://www.caminodesantiago.me) I was within my rights to ask the men to leave the room. I shook one of them and thought this worked as he rolled over onto his side, but sadly a few moments later he set off again. I will be better prepared for this eventuality next time...any tips (other than physical abuse that is) please e-mail me to [email protected] (lol)!!!


Markina Xemein

The last town in the province of Bizkaia, Markina lies between Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia. Coming from the Spanish word "marca" meaning "mark", Markina-Xemein marks the location where the Gipuzkoanos (the people of Guipuzcoa province) often battled the Vizcaino's (the people of Biscay province).This town in the Vizcaya region is on the Pilgrim's Road to Santiago de Compostela, which runs along the Basque coast towards the holy city. That fact that it formed part of the Pilgrim's Road to Santiago de Compostela gave Markina-Xemein a medieval layout which is still present today. Founded in 1355 by Don Tello, illegitimate brother of Pedro I "the Cruel", it boasts a walled town centre. Parallel streets joined by alleys constitutes the urban design of this city, where you will find beautiful examples of architecture. The Basque-Gothic style of the 16th century can be admired in the three naves and powerful columns of the church of Santa María. Towers like those of Barroeta or Mugartegui allow the visitor to see Renaissance and baroque palaces, a testimony to its magnificent past. Particularly striking is the hermitage of San Miguel de Arretxinaga, with a hexagonal plan and a megalith on its altar. The cemetery of Markina-Xemein is another must, since it is an excellent example of enlightened thought. Its Neoclassic design combines both Greek and Egyptian elements. During Carnival is a good time to visit this town and learn more about its culture and customs. One of them is its excellent cuisine, made with ingredients picked fresh from the sea. Tuna and potato stew, baby squid in their own ink or kokotxas in green sauce are just some of the more famous recipes of the region.