Day 1: Cape Town to Noordoewer

Had a relatively uneventful trip to Namibia. The road has vastly improved so we made good time. You know you're back in the Northern Cape when you see road signs like - "Knersvlakte Spens" [teeth-gritting plains pantry] and "Moedverloor" [courage lost]!

The border crossing into Namibia was a mere formality and we checked into our Bed & Breakfast at Noordoewer by 15h00. Noordoewer Guesthouse is to be recommended. New and clean with great service so a relaxing evening and a good meal. Breakfast was prompt and friendly and we were on our way again.

Day 2: Noordoewer to Mariental

Follow the B1 to Mariental! Nice easy road and not too busy but man do they make long, straight roads around here. The scenery is not terribly varied so it gets a bit boring and we decide to stop at the next farm shop which happens to serve coffee. We have no sooner settled down to our drinks when two other vehicles stop and I hear 'Coooeeeee!!' It is Antoinette and Willem on their way from St. Francis Bay to meet us in two days' time at the Angolan Border. With them are their sister-in-law and hubby on their way from Bloemfontein to Angola. It's a small world indeed and we will see them again in two days' time when we all meet for the trip through Angola. After a break they leave for Windhoek and we're off to Mariental.

We visited Spar in Mariental for those last bits and pieces and then head to our lodgings at Lapa Lange Game Lodge where we can catch up with the blog and hopefully get some decent photos.

Day 3: Mariental to Otjiwarango

Lapa Lange Game Lodge is indeed an oasis, but it was awfully quiet with only a few guests and the animals had mostly been to drink before we got there. Disappointment was somewhat allayed by the appearance of two rhino which came down to drink and there was just enough light to watch (and attempt to photograph) them. We then spent a quiet day driving along long, straight roads. The roads are not particularly busy but they sure do get boring after a while! We arrived in Otjiwarango and checked into Hadassa Guest Lodge which is a lovely, quiet little place to re-charge the batteries. We even found a pub and restaurant for dinner!

Day 4: Otjiwarango to Ruacana

Follow the long, straight road again. Now Simon has to watch out for more than just warthog along the road. There are adults, children, dogs, donkeys, sheep, goats, cattle and horses and one giraffe! The signs also warn of elephant, but we did not get to see any. We arrived at Ruacana Eha Lodge where we met our fellow-travellers. A couple of us have booked rooms at the lodge, but the majority are serious campers so the campground is busy. I will make the most of my last en-suite bathroom thank you!

We are back in Namibia after 11 days in Angola so our Namibian blog resumes.

Day 15: Ruacana to Onguma, Etosha

It feels weird to be travelling alone again, but less complicated. Once again 300-odd Kilometres did not sound like much, but the road is long and straight and the speed restrictions slow even the Doddle down all the time. This area of Namibia is interesting as there is not such a huge concentration of people in each city. It seems that they are rather strung out along the main thoroughfares which of course means more job opportunities and they are pretty entrepreneurial with combinations like Bar/Restaurant/Car-Wash and even Barber/Bar/Restaurant/Car-Wash!

Unfortunately all these small settlements means constant speed restrictions and even speed-bumps and we get caught at the one and only speed camera that we have seen. They pull Simon over and tell him he's doing 83km/hour in a 60km zone. It is a bit of a guessing game as many of the speed restriction signs are missing and he points that out to the police. They agree that they have to let him go with a warning, make some insinuations about him being a rich South African (which he ignores) and eventually let us go.

We eventually get to Etosha and almost immediately see a couple of rhino in the distance as well as other game so we are happy. We head off to Onguma Bush Camp where we have booked a campsite and we arrive at a rather pleasant lodge and ask whether they are really full or whether they have a room for us. They of course have a room so we upgrade and spend a pleasant time at the pool and water-hole and have dinner in the restaurant. It seems that even Simon has had enough of camping for one trip!

Day 16: Onguma to Halala, Etosha

From Onguma we go back into the Etosha National Park on our way to Halala which is in the park. Halala offers camping and double rooms and we have a room booked for two nights. The facilities within the park are okay, but really nothing special. We have been before so that is not a surprise and our room is comfortable and clean (and has an en-suite) so that's all good.

The gates to the camp close at 18h00 and open again at 06h00 so there is no night time driving allowed unless you go game-viewing with a guide (at N$600 pp). We decided to give that a miss and went to watch the sunset from the waterhole which is on the border of the camp. We were fortunate enough to see rhino and even a hyena come down to the waterhole that was worthwhile.

Then back to the lodge for dinner and a comfortable, clean room to sleep in.

Day 17: Halala, Etosha

We have another day booked at Halala so we get up at 06h00 and head to the waterhole to see what's going on. We get there just in time to see a honey badger scrambling around amongst the rocks so our timing was perfect.

We have breakfast and then head out amongst the roads in Etosha. It seems to us that they are short of rain as some of the waterholes are rather dry and others look quite low. We see lots of impala and springbok, red hartebeest, elephant, zebra and various birds.

In the afternoon we strike it lucky at one of the waterholes and spot a leopard waiting in the shade. We see a variety of animals there and at one stage it almost looks like a zoo!

Day 18: Halala to Okahandja

Although it is on 427km travel today, it actually takes most of the day and we are happy to check in to our hotel. Time to chill and hey, it's Friday so you know where to find us!

Cheers!!

Day 19: Okahandja to Mariental

We travel via the Hardap Dam which Simon has always wanted to see. It is an impressive sight in a pretty dry area. We also come across a very new resort which is almost finished at the Hardap Dam. It will provide a lot of very good accommodation and we hope it will be well-utilised as it is a serious investment.

We check into Bastion Farmyard which is near Mariental and proves to be the oasis it is reputed to be. It seems to be an old farm house converted to six en-suite rooms with a shared kitchen. They also have a very quaint coffee shop, but that was closed as it is Saturday. A quaint and well-equipped place where we could chill and make our own dinner while we watched the rugby. All very relaxed and just what we wanted.

Day 20: Mariental to Aus

It's a long dusty road as they say and we eventually get to Aus. Don't blink twice or you will miss it, but do pop in as it is worth a visit. We got there in time for lunch and were seriously impressed with their smoked salmon salad. We did a little sight-seeing and in the hills found some old deserted defence walls from the First World War. Can't imagine the soldiers coping in this heat! We also came across an old car which apparently belonged to two diamond-smugglers who were trying to escape many years ago. The 'diamond police' were chasing them and caught up with them here. A gun battle ensued and they were both killed but the diamonds were never recovered. Rumour has it that their ghosts still haunt these hills.

We have another spectacular desert sunset and return to the hotel for yet another meal and we are not disappointed. The chef and the other staff are really great and we thoroughly enjoy our stay there. It was very popular amongst Namibian travellers for Sunday lunch and we can understand why.

Day 21: Aus to Oranjemund

Oranjemund is still in a closed, diamond-mining zone so there is tight control about who is allowed in. We had arranged with our B&B for them to apply for an entry permit for us so we just needed to go through the steps and we were allowed in. The road to Oranjemund is under construction so it is slow and dusty going, but all good. We go into the town and look around and then go down to the beach where the Orange River mouth is. Quite a while ago Simon was involved in the building of the bridge over this river from Oranjemund to Alexander Bay on the South African side. It is all a dust bowl of note, but there are Oryx everywhere - on the golf course and on the sidewalks (if there's grass) in the town. The temperature at the beach is about 10degrees Centigrade less than at the border. The sea must be incredibly cold here. We even see ostrich on the beach which I reckon must be rather unusual.

We go back to the Op My Stoep B&B where we are staying and once again settle into a very nice room and we will eat here as there really is not much else that's appealing.

Tomorrow we are homeward bound and I think we are both pleased to be going home. It feels like it's been a long trip!

NAMIBIA

We always enjoy travelling in Namibia, but there comes a time when the heat, dust and dryness get you down. Always reminds me of what I hated about Kimberley. The roads are also very long and straight - not very exciting.

We have stayed in some interesting B&B and Hotel accommodation where you can see the German and Afrikaans attention to detail and standards of cleanliness and organisation which is always welcome. We have also noticed that the hospitality industry in Namibia has become exceptionally prescriptive. Even in restaurants you are told exactly what to do and what is not acceptable e.g. food is individually prepared and not fast-food so you will have to wait. Also instructions like "Leave your attitude at the door - we treat people with respect here!" and "You will leave your table not longer than 1 hour after your last order!" or my best; "If you are not hungry for The Lord, then you are probably too full of yourself!" (Inspiring??)

We do enjoy the fact that things are generally well-organised and well-equipped and they people have always been very friendly and hospitable.

The dirt roads (although as stated before but cannot be over-stated, have exceptionally long straights) are in excellent condition and we ride comfortably at 100km/hr most of the time.

The best apple pie is to be had at a tiny "hamlet" called Helmeringhausen, half way between Maltahohe and Aus. Aus was quiet and small but Sunday lunch with locals and travellers at the Bahnhof Hotel (where we are staying over) was positively raucous and the food was very good indeed. Between Aus and Oranjemund one needs a permit for the Spergebiet (forbidden area due to mining) which is entered about 15km from Rosh Pinah. The dirt road is being upgraded so there are detours and delays but not severe - this road will be a pleasure to drive in about 2 years' time!!

Oranjemund is a mining town built and managed by Namdeb (hence the permit requirements) and there is not much to the town and we are staying about 5km outside the town in a decent B&B near the border. Tomorrow is the long pull home.