So today we parted as I wanted more temples and Loz wanted more record shopping... I went to Nikko with Hannah and Christian who I met at the hostel. Strangely both of them had a social science background too so it was nice to talk about academia for a bit. We sat chatting on the Shinkansen and actually forgot to get off at our stop so ended up going about 150 miles too far... but nice conductor saw funny side and it was no hassle or money to get back. Nikko was great - a pilgrim town full of temples and shrines and a "sacred bridge", the gold of the temples catching the light was really beautiful. Loved the 'see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil' monkeys. Everything was great. Went for a sento and spent the last of my Japanese yen on it - overlooking the river and gorgeous trees and mountains. Best jacuzzi I have ever had.