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We had arrived in Cusco a few days earlier (August 24th) to aclimatise to the altitude (3300m). I was a bit aprehensive about getting altitude sickness again since the Quito/Cotopaxi experience was not all that pleasent. I had a great time at Wild Rover in Arequpia so before I knew it I was knocking at the door of the Cusco branch.
On Thursday we did a tour of the city given by a guy from Donegal who has been living there for about two and half years. It was a great intoduction to the city as he brought us to the local market where you can get everything form delicious fresh juices, almuerzo (a really really cheap lunch) and a butchers where there is a collection of skinned cow heads, tounge and every other part of animal you would never dream of eating. It definitely tested my stomach but it was cool to see all the same. We wondered down through the main square and up towards he hills overlooking Cusco. Walking at altitude is kind of strange. You forgot that you're up so high and while walking up a little incline your heart is pumping and you're gasping for air. For a minute you're like ' wow I have to cut back on the boozing' but then you realise it's the altitude and your back to thinking about having your next 'run y cola'!
We went up to a site called Saqsayhuman where it ended up as a battle site between Spanish and the Incas during the 15th century. The puma is one of the sacred animals of the Incas and this site originally represents the head of the puma and one of the streets in Cusco represents the spine! With a good orientation and history of the city I was ready to explore the other side of Cusco life - party time.
WR hostel is a bit mental. If you want, you can booze all day everyday so it's best to get out of there during daylight hours. Everynight there is a theme night and drink promos. Then it's off to some off the clubs around the main square. The clubs are booming at one am and go on to the sun comes us. After a couple of nights the same club, same music and same people it gets a bit repetitive but at the same time it was tough to leave the fun times behind and focus on the Inca Trail.
We had booked 'The classic 4 day Inca Trail' back in May and due to high season it wasn't until August 29th that we were due to set off. Sunday night we all met for our debrief and to meet the rest of the group. Thankfully we had a small group of 7 and we were all roughly all the same age so it would make the hike all that bit quicker. Pick up was scheduled for five thirty the next morning.
We got to KM 82 in the Urubamba Valley as this was the starting point for our hike. After document check points and one final check for gear we were ready to start. Day two was set to be the toughest. Reaching the summit of Dead Womans Pass at 4200m decending to 3600m and then over the final pass Abra De Runkuracay 4000m. It was challanging in the altitude but we walked at a moderate pace and took several breaks. Sometimes too many and it was kind of annoying but personally I think it was because our guide was a bit slow!
What I learned most from the trip was the fact than Incas worshiped the sun, rainbow, glacier mountians (Abu meaning sacred) as that was the source of the water for the farms, the rivers below and three animals - snake, puma and condor. Due to the high altitude, coca leaves (help against altitude sickness) are a precious commodity. As barter is the main form of transaction in the mountains a pound of leaves can get you several KGs of potatoes. Random facts but they stood out to me!
In fairness to our guide he was so knowledgable and considered himself a mountian person. He was also able to speak he ancient quechua language. At some sites we would stop for thirty mins and get a full history while other groups spent five minutes there and moved on.
One of my highlights was when we stopped at a lookout/storage house ruin at Runkuracay. From the front you can see the trail all the way back up to the gap in Dead Womans Pass, the entire valley that cuts through the two passes and then the giant glacial mountians in he background. In one view you could see all their beliefs and ideas coming together as one. I may have been delusional from the altitude but no seriously it was an amazing setting.
On the final day we got up at 3.45 in order to pack up and trek the final hour to the infamous Inti Punku (Sun Gate). This is overlooking the Machu Pichu city site and as always the sites are the first places on the mountains to get the sun. After skipping past a few slow coaches on the trail I got there in time for the sun. Words don't really do it justice but it was a great achievement to finally see it after a tough few day of treking, you are just in awe of it really.
The Spanish never actally found Machu Picchu so it is referred to as an archelogical site and not ruins. The jungle claimed it and hence was never found. We got a tour around the site and took some great photos. We also collectivley judged the lazy assed day trekkers for just getting a bus to the gate and walking for about five minutes too see the site!
Back in Cusco for a few days of relaxing after the trek.... Ah who I am I kidding we had a great few nights out to celebrate our triumphant trek!
Now to Bolivia!
- comments
P&M great blog on this leg of the journey. We would love to be there and see it as observing nature is one of our passtimes. Although west Cork does not offer the same views, its the best we have here.
Brian Nice pete, very nice. your descibe it great, for a second i thought i was there standing next to you looking at it... but then i smelt my toastie buring, so back to reality. looking forward to the pics!!
anna callanan wow thank you for a delightful detailed account, really enjoyed reading about your trek adventure, keep up the excellent reports!, brian re the toastie -idiot :)!