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We said good bye to our lovely Airbnb in Positano on Thursday, May 31, at 9am. Our driver, Nello, helped us load our growing pile of suitcases, and we were off. By 10, we were at Pompeii, ready to start our guided tour with Dario. He was an amazing guide, an archeologist and historian in his spare time. He mentioned that they just found a body in a new section of the dig, and this one they will preserve in silicone rather than plaster (a new process as of 2005). Interestingly 2/5 of Pompeii (150 acres) has yet to be uncovered, due to lack of funds. UNESCO supports them, but Italy has so many antiquities that need preserved and maintained that the available funds will never suffice.
That being said, the parts of Pompeii which have been uncovered are truly astounding. Also bear in mind that there was there was significant damage to Pompeii during WWII bombings. We saw the rusted out hulk of a bomb in one courtyard.
The Roman civilization at Pompeii was about 500 years in the making, from 400 BC to 79 AD when Vesuvius erupted (from 7 miles away) and covered the city in volcanic ash. Our guide quoted Goethe when we commented how sad it was to look at preserved bodies, saying they were martyrs for our education (paraphrased).
The Roman engineering feats were incredible, especially how they provided running water to all in the city using science we still use today with gravity based water towers and aqueducts. In commerce, they were global, with evidence of goods from Asia and Africa. They had wine bars, casinos, barbershops, public baths and gymnasiums. Other than missing our cell phones, we might have been comfortable there! In summary, we broadened our understanding of world history and Dario was responsible for that.
After our visit to Pompeii, we went to Boscotrecase for a wine tasting at Sorrentino Vini winery. We had a lovely lunch of meats, cheeses, pasta, and plum cake, while tasting six different wines. The grape varieties were unfamiliar to us, but one of their secrets appeared to be growing the grapes in volcanic soil at 400-600 meters elevation. One white wine was called Lacryma Cristi del Vesuvius (Tears of Christ on Vesuvius). We bought 6 bottles (red and white) to take to Rome.
Nello loaded us in the car and we promptly fell asleep for the 3 hour drive to Rome. We arrived at 6 pm and were met by Andrea who lives in a rooftop apartment just near the one we booked. We have three bedrooms, a kitchen, dining/living room and access to two rooftop decks from which we can see the Presidential Palace and the dome of St Peters Basilica. The style of the apartment is very unique, kind of a blend of ship-like structure and 1950s retro. It's an amazing space and we have been happy here. Andrea sent us down to a restaurant close by, Da Olympia. You'd think we would grow tired of Italian food, but no! we keeping ordering and taking pictures, and gobbling it down. We found our way back somehow and had pleasant dreams. Next day is our tour of Vatican City.
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