Days 6 and 7: Florence

Day 6: As I predicted, I woke up this morning with no desire to go to art museums. So I didn't. I went massive church hopping instead and had a good time. I found one that was having a free performance that night (a tenor, a soprano and a harpist). I also went to Santa Croce Church (where Michaelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli, among other studs, are buried.) This particular church had 15 feet of standing water after the Great Flood of 1966 and had amazing pictures of the flood and restoration process. They were literally shoveling out mud for days after the waters receded, and some major works of art were damaged. A crucifix from the 1400's had been covered in mud for days. It was more a painting then a carving, and it lost 70% of its paint. It was restored, but the damage is obvious. It was hung on higher ground, and is now attached to a special pulley system. If a flood warning sounds, the pulley system automatically fires up and raises the cross even higher. In another room they had a set of about 6 large paintings that had been refurbished after the flood. What was amazing about this was how vivid the colors were. So many churches I've been in have painting so darkened from years of candle smoke and other environmental factors that you can barely make out what they are. Seeing the refurbished ones made you realize what is hiding under soot all over the city (and probably all over the country.)

After spending the day apart doing our own thing, Susan and I met up for dinner then went to the performance, which was outstanding. Turns out is was no so free; they were collecting donations for renovations to the church. We both gave them money, then gave them more money. The church was fairly small by Italy standards, and about 20% full. We sat in the third row, and the acoustics were amazing. The singers were so powerful and the space so intimate, you felt like the music was seeping through your pores into you body. It was a very special experience. For pre-show dinner, I had a steak and vegetables. The steak (a specialty of Florence) was good, but no better than what I can get in Ohio. The vegetables, very thin zucchini, were just OK. There aren't a lot of vegetables on the menus (except for cooked spinach, which isn't my favorite), so I was desperate for something green. We walk into the restaurant and get complimentary champagne, drink a glass of wine with dinner, then they gave us a complimentary shot of lemon something as we are literally walking out the door. Ha, maybe all the alcohol was why the concert was so good!

Day 7:

I 'forced' myself to go to the museum and see David today, which was as amazing as everyone says. I read The Agony and the Ecstasy (a work of fiction, but also considered a pretty good biography of Michaelangelo) twice to prepare for this trip, so I felt I had to see David. Yesterday my travels included many Michelangelo hot stops, including San Lorenzo church, Santo Spirito Church, the Medici chapels, and Santa Croce, so it isn't like I've been ignoring him. Today I also spent time at Santa Maria Novella church, where Michelangelo worked on his first frescos as an apprentice to Ghirlandaio. (Forgive the spelling errors; I'm tired and lazy tonight.) I met up with Susan in the afternoon to do some shopping and go to church/monastery on the edge of town, high on a hill, with great views of the city. Dinner was wild boar again (YUM) and lightly fried veggies (onion, artichokes and zucchini….yum, Yum, YUM).

A few random topics:

Food: Dinner is pure gluttony. I've developed a routine of taking off in the morning with a couple hard boiled eggs in my pocket for breakfast, as well as some cheese, crackers and prosciutto for lunch. (And of course, there are always some pieces of chocolate.) So I'm keeping it light during the day, but it is hard to make dinner anything but a gluttonous feast of food and drink. Again tonight there was complimentary Champaign at dinner. I don't know if this is because it is off season or not. The food is amazing. Everything on the menu looks good, and everything I've eaten has been outstanding, and we're not eating at high end places. On the positive side, I'm walking 20-30K steps per day, so hopefully I'm not doing too much damage.

Churchy stuff: the churches are FREEZING. If anyone has been to Italy in summertime and gone to the churches, I'd love to know if they were cooler than outside or same as outside. I swear more of them are colder inside than outside.

I'm been two masses (one planned, one I just happened to be in the church when it was starting, so I stayed. At one the priest faced the alter, at one he faced the crowd. I've been to the rosary 1.5 times., again, one planned, and one I walked into. I tried to go to vespers twice in Venice, and both were cancelled. I tried to go to Gregorian chanting in Florence, but it didn't happen.

I've seen two paintings of Mary with swords being stabbed into her. One had multiple swords, and one just had a single sword going into her neck. I've posted pictures. I looked it up and think it may have something to do with Our Lady of Sorrows?? Anyone know more? Mom?

In many churches there will be a statue, often of the Blessed Heart, and people will have brought all these medals/pins that look like a Blessed Heart. I also am unfamiliar with this practice. If anyone knows anything, I'd like to hear it.

Present: To Mom and Dad, you bought me an insanely extravagant Christmas present today. Thanks!

Tomorrow we pack up and head to Rome for a week. I feel I saw most of what I wanted to see in Florence, except for a WWII cemetery just outside the city. I could have used 1-2 more days here, but I always say that. Florence is wonderful and very manageable.

I'm getting tired. Susan is getting a cold. I think we both need a crash day. Nothing is on the agenda for tomorrow besides the move and getting settled. However, I'm going to try and keep going strong until Christmas day, which should be quiet. I hope our Roman apartment is as good as the first two have been.