We've just had three great days, the best so far in New Zealand experiencing the Hollyford Track. A great group of people who we started to get to know (and a bit of a reminder of what it might have been if we had had a bigger group on the rest of the trip). Two amazing guides, especially Mike whose knowledge and story telling skills, dry humour and passion for the forest botany, geology of how the fjords were created and the people - both the early pioneers and Maori of the Hollyford Valley really helped to make the trip very special. The other guide, Graham was quiet and always brought up the rear but when you spoke to him equally proud of NZ and wanted to share as much as he could - you also felt he would definitely be a safe pair of hands in a crisis.

We initially got picked up at 6.30am - not easy for Mum who is not a morning person. We got on the bus and it soon did the rounds to pick everyone up. Two hours later after following Lake Wakatipu we were in Te Anau, having a hot drink and muffin in the Sandfly Cafe where we met Mike and Graham for the first time, standing there in their quite short shorts, thermal khaki T shirts and gaiters - looking very much the bush guides! Big smiles, shake of the hands and an amazing ability to remember everyones name for the whole trip. Two hours later along the Eglinton Valley we arrived at Gunn's Camp - the last flushing loo until that evening. A simple camp with half a dozen huts and a sandfly haven but the start of our journey into learning about the early pioneers.

The walk then started. Day one and 17 km. it felt and was quite a bit further than we has done so far - starting about 11am and finishing about 6.30pm. A good pace throughout with a bit of up hill but frequent stops to learn about plants and the forest make up. We carried all our things for the three days in our backpacks as well as a delicious packed lunch which we had at a beautiful spot (see picture). The weather was very kind. Still a bit chilly but the sun shone and this was somewhere that gets 8m of rain a year so where we were actually expecting it to rain.

We arrived at Pikes River Lodge feeling like we'd done a good day walking and more knowledgeable about ferns, lichen, moss, broad leafs, trees and the stages of development of a forest. Pikes Lodge was run by a cheerful smiling couple who greeted us with a drink. The lodge had a beautiful open plan lounge with a huge table to sit everyone, massive window overlooking the river and spectacular snow peaked mountains. Our rooms were small but private with bunk beds, hot water bottles and chocolates on the pillow and importantly the showers were hot and very welcome, the beers cold and also very welcome - not to mention a delicious venison dinner. Not bad for being completely in the wilderness where everything was walked or boated in. Evening entertainment was feeding the eels the kitchen scraps when the sun went down. Just a slithering array of about 30 of them of various sizes but some about a meter long - attacking the food and slithering out of the water to get it with their mouths open and sharp teeth very evident. I had a quick stroke of one but if they bite you, due to the tupe of hooked teeth it's hard to get your hand out. Pretty amazing sight.

Early the next morning after a eggs benedict we went for a short walk without our packs to Lake Alabasta. A stunning lake with an incredible reflective surface - see picture - and with the mist was just burning off to reveal yet again another unexpected beautiful day. Returning back to camp we were greeted with another drink and warm, melt in the mouth chocolate chip cookies straight from the oven. Impossible to resist.

We then headed off down the track a short way to get into the jet boat where Rob (the jet boat driver) took us down the Hollyford River and across Lake McKerrow. He explained about the glacial development of the river and lake. We made a short stop where we learnt all about what was once a settlement, Jamestown that unfortunately failed despite the best attempts of the pioneers. Further downstream we started a walk through very old beautiful Podocarp forest (New Zealand Native pines) seeing huge Rimu, Totara, Kahikatea trees wrapped in massive Rata vines. We stopped for lunch that had been set up in a safari tent. The sun was still out so Mum and I ate outside but the rest were inside - you can tell we'd come from winter! The toilet there was ingenious. (See pictures). There was no door but the back of the loo had been screened off and a sign attached that said vacancy when the lid of the loo was down and said occupied when the lid was up. Simple but effective!

Another good walk on all along to the Tasmin Sea and along the coast to a point where we went out over the large boulders to see New Zealand fur seals and their pups. Lots of them, pretty close checking us out and the pups all playing in the rock pools. We also caught a glimpse of the rare Fjordland Crested Penguin - very unusual for this time of year. We then headed back to pick up the jet boat to take us to our second camp - Martins Bay Lodge around 6.30pm so a long day and about 12 kms in total. More modern than Pikes Lodge, but similar layout with two great hosts who cooked a great evening meal.

Up early again on the third day where we took the jet boat just across the river to the sand dunes. A truly remarkable example of unadulterated sand dunes (it's appeared on the cover of National Geographic magazine) where as we walked along the spit Mike summed up the botany, geology and people parts we had learnt to bring it all together and told some great stories. A beautiful warm day yet again - but we were covered up due to the sand flies. Walked about 5kms. Lunch back at the lodge before getting in a small 6 seater cessner plane for the very scenic flight up the coast and down Milford Sound. Stunning.

We said goodbye with big hugs to most of the others as they headed back on the bus to Queenstown. Meanwhile Mum and I and another couple Penny and Bill who are from LA came aboard the Mariner for an overnight cruise on the Milford Sound.