11/1/10 Varanasi

We all woke up at about 9am after we had both had a great nights sleep for a change. Alan hadn't slept much but we all got up to discover the train was 1.5 hours delayed so we had another few hours to kill. We chatted and watched the world go by whilst drinking plenty of Chai brought round by the train kitchen staff. We had ordered Indian breakfast the previous evening and that was delivered to us almost hot. It was rice, dahl, some spicy dips and a couple of chapatis. we decided to meet up with Alan and Kath at their hotel later on to go and see Varnasis most famous attraction, the burning Ghats. Varanasi, also known as Benares or Banaras is one of the oldest living cities in the world and the ultimate pilgrimage for Hindus. Situated on the northern bank of the Ganges River in northern India, Varanasi is bounded by the river's two tributaries, Varuna on the north and Asi on the south which flow into the Ganga. The spiritual atmosphere that results from this holyness makes Varanasi a very interesting destination. Lot of Hindus come to to Varanasi to gasp their lives away and want to have their ashes dispersed in the Ganges. Every day and every hour, there are cremations along the Ganges at the Ghats. When you walk the crowded streets of the old city near the Ganges river, you will see holy men, holy cows, and holy temples all over the place. All along the river are stairs (ghats) leading into Ma Ganga and at several sites bodies are openly cremated before their remains an ashes are scattered into the river. We had seen a similar site in Kathmandu but not on the same scale. Our escort met us from the train and we drove to the hotel. On first impressions Varinasi was much cleaner than either Delhi, Jaipur or Agra. The hotel was ok but not really what we had expected for the money we had paid. It was freezing in the room and wasn't too clean. We wanted showers but there was no hot water until we'd called several times for someone to check it. When they finally arrived the water was hot straight away so we thought they'd switched it on and waited. After hot showers we went by rickshaw to Alan and Kaths hotel which was not too far away. Their hotel was much plusher than ours and we joined them for a nice cold beer in the reception seating area. We booked a taxi through the hotel which drove us through the crazy streets of Varanasi and came to a stop in a car park. When we arrived a boat owner was there ready to pounce with a deal to take us all on a boat trip down the river. It seemed pricy but between four of us was ok and so we followed the man for about ten minutes to Dashashwamedh Ghat where a Hindu ceremony takes place at sunset each day. On the way Liz was desperate for the loo and the boat man took us into a silk shop to use the loo. We got to the Ghat having past through a small alleyway which was obviously the public toilet as it smelt and looked so pleasant. Ive just borrowed a few words from Lonely Planet which sum up Varanasi Ghats: Spiritual life in Varanasi revolves around the ghats, the long string of bathing steps leading down to the water on the western bank of the Ganges. Most are used for bathing but there are also several 'burning ghats' where bodies are cremated in public - the main burning ghat is Manikarnika and you'll often see funeral processions threading their way through the backstreets to this ghat. The best time to visit the ghats is at dawn when the river is bathed in a mellow light as pilgrims come to perform puja (literally 'respect'; offering or prayers) to the rising sun, and at sunset when the main ganga aarti ceremony takes place at Dasaswamedh Ghat. When we arrived the ceremony had already started and we went straighto the boat to go into the river to watch from there. The boat didn't move very far and we had a decent view but quickly realised we'd have seen more from the shore. We all bought a symbolic flower and candle which we lit and launched from the boat to bring good to departed loved ones. The ceremony itself was accompanied by music and song and was seven holymen using flames, holy water and flower offerings to the gods and the river. There was a big crowd watching and quite a few boats on the river. We then moved off to go down to see the main burning ghat. We could see the flames and smoke and there were about 7 funeral pyres burning with a few bodies waiting to be burned. They were all covered in ceremonial materials of gold and shining fabrics. The bodies are first rubbed with oils then washed in the Ganges water, left to dry for an hour then put on the pyre. Only the men watch the fire as no tears are allowed as it creates bad Karma. The oldest son or male relative has all his hair shaved off and is dressed in white robes to light the pyre. He will wash in the river after the body is burned and then pour some water on the remains before the last remains go to the river. The river itself is absolutely foul with all sorts of polution and raw sewage in it but all along the ghats there are people bathing and washing their clothes. It is seen as one of the holiest places in India and thousands of people are cremated there. The Manikarnika ghat is the only one in India to work 24 hours a day as the fires usually stop at sunset. While we were watching a man climbed aboard our boat claiming to be a holy man collecting charity for poor elderly people who couldn't afford their funerals. He said that there were lots of dying elderly people in the obviously empty and abandoned buildings around the ghat. We weren't really convinced but gave him a few rupees to get rid of him, couldn't believe thet there were people up to scams in their most holy place!!! Apparently it costs about 250 Rupees per kilo of wood to burn the bodies and its specially imported as it has oils in it that hide any smells. It didn't smell at all just the smell of burning wood but it takes 350 kg to burn a body so its really expensive. We went back ot the ceremonial ghat where it had all finished and walked back up through a huger amount of really poor homeless people. There were children and elderly all begging for food and rupees. It was really hard to walk on by but we had no choice but to pass them all. The boat man then said we should look in the silk shop-scam alert- and so we all went up the stairs to be warmly welcomed in. The men in there were lovely and showed us lots of silks which were very nice but we really didn't want to buy any. Liz said as soon as we walked in that we were only looking and didn't want to buy any. They proceeded to unfold stacks of silk scarves and ask us which ones we wanted. Liz asked if they'd sell them half price which thry decided was a deal being made. When we said we didn't want to buy any the man turnedon us calling Liz dishonest. After all the scams we'd faced we couldn't believe we'd been accused of dishonesty. Phil saw red and had a go at the man saying we'd not asked to come to the shop but had been bought there. Liz said she would give them a few rupees for using the loo but wasn't buying any of their scarves. At this point we left feeling really fed up of the way we were being used all the time. We don't mind being asked if we want to buy things but there is an unwaning persistence here to grind you down. We all said we hated being rude to people but we had no choice as a simple no thankyou didn't do the trick. We got in the taxi to return to the hotel and asked the driver to take us somewhere to eat. He dropped us at Brownies restaurant between our two hotels and we had a lovely meal in there. When we got outside it was really cold and foggy so we jumped in a rickshaw back to the hotel. We made arrangements for Alan and kath to meet us the next day for more exploring.

12/1/10 Varanasi

We were awake at about nine showered and had breakast so we were ready to be met by Alan and Kath who were getting a taxi from their hotel. Liz asked for a hairdryer which never arrived as she didn't want to walk around with wet hair. Anyway we went into town again through the chaotic streets and when the car stopped we were met again by a boat man asking us if we wanted a trip. He said it would be only 50 rupees each as opposed to the 300 we'd paid the day before. We followed him as we wanted to see the river in daylight as it was all very interesting. When we arrived at the boat he announced that it would be 50 rupees each only if his boat was full and we'd have to wait for it to fill up-scam alert- there was noone else about so we knew it would take forever. He said he could just take us but for 200 each. We said forget it and tried to walk away. We watched the local kids playing cricket on the stairs, watched some people bathing in the river whilst the man was trying to get us to go with him. In the end he relented and agreed to his original offer. We all climbed aboard the boat and we went in a different direction to the night before as there was a smaller burning ghat to see further in the other direction. Along the ghats there was all sorts of activity and life going on and we all decided to get out of the boat and walk back so we could take our time. We had passed Rana, Kedar and Haribi Ghats on the way. We'd seen people taking their holy baths called Sanas where they bathed their bodies, faces, mouths and heads in the river water. The river is officially very toxic due to years of waste flowing into it as well as people washing themselves and their clothes in it. We saw lines of clothing out to dry and many pieces of linen laid out drying in the sun. Some people were washing themselves and their clothes right next to each other and next to the burning ghat. We went to see the burning ghat and w were able to stand really close to the funeral pyres. Families didn't seem too worried about us being there and it really didn't feel too intrusive. The burning of the body is done in quite a matter of fact way despite the rituals associated with it. There is no sadness there and the bodies are poked and prodded so they burn fully. We could see the skulls, feet and hands of several bodies, quite shocking for us to see but the locals were quite ok with it. We stayed and watched for a while as several more bodies were prepared and were at different stages of the process. We were able to take a few photos there but made sure we were descreet and not pointing our cameras at anyone like some other tourists nearby. We were approached by people claiming to be helping the poor but didn't fall for it this time. We walked along the narrow lanes behind the ghat area and saw the conditions in which people lived and worked. It was really unsanitary and was like stepping back to medieval times with people in tiny rooms lit by a small candle to work by. We went to the Bread of Life bakery where we had lunch and cakes with teas then went back to the ghats to explore some more. There was so much to look at and we weren't too bothered by the people, just a few beggars and children selling a few things so it was really relaxed. We all took photos of people and activity along the ghat. Kath andLiz went into a silk shop selling the same silk scarves they had seen before. We worked a good deal for a few and had a good chat to the men there. We walked along towards the big burning ghat through the ceremonial ghat. On the way there an old homeless looknig man approached Phil and grabbed his hand. He started to massage him and spent about ten minutes rubbing all of Phil much to the rest of our amusement. It looked really uncomfortable but really entertained the locals who formed a bit of a crowd to watch. When he was finally finished he was encouraged to pay for the "free" service offered by the man, there is always a charge here. We wlked back up behind the ghats through the tiny dark passages full of people beavering away on old fashioned sewing machines, using cobblers equipment and selling all sorts of goods by candle light. we found a cafe back off the bustle and hassle of the main road. We had a cup of tea and shared a french toast and a chocolate brownie there then decided to try and find somewhere to have a beer then off to bed. We found the taxi park by the theatre but all the taxis were reserved so we all piled into an auto rickshaw to find the Surya hotel which had a bar according to LP. It was quite near to both or hotels too so would be handy for getting back. We pulled up to the Surya which looked all dark and no sign of a bar until we went through a door by the small reception. It opened out into a huge garden area with a very nice looking hotel opposite and the bar at the end. The bar was quite nice with low cushions to sit on and a few people were in there smoking a bubble pipe so it was really chiled. We sat down and ordered a beer. The fellas both had a local beer called Haywards which we were to realise later was really strong, 8%. The girls both had Kingfisher beer. We were chatting and ordering more beer for hours not really realising just how drunk we were all getting. Alan came back from the loo and went flying which was hilarious. had a last orders beer then got up to go which was when we realised we were a bit drunk. Phil kept tripping over on our way home and we jumped into a tuk tuk in the end back to the hotel. We arranged to meet the others the next day and went to bed.

13/1/10 Varanasi

We woke up about 10 feeling pretty rough and both disagreed as to the arangements for meeting Kath and ALan. Liz had a vague memory of 2pm and Phil thought 12, we weren't sure wether we'd said their hotel or Pizza Hut next door !!!! We tried to get a shower but the water was freezing again till the men came to the room ten minutes after us calling down to reception. We wandered round to Kath and Alans hotel being followed all the way by a persistent rickshaw driver. We spotted them checking out in their hotel reception and they were both feeling pretty rough too and we all couldn't believe how drunk we got on only three or four beers. We decided to head to Pizza Hut to get some desperately needed sugary drinks and stodgy food. We had a good feed and then walked back to the hotel to see Alan and Kath off as they were going to Kolcata on the night train. Liz had packed up her left overs and gave them to a couple of children begging nearby. Their little faces beamed when they saw the pizza box but within a few seconds they appeared next to us without the food and asking for money and trying to sell some stuff..you can't win eh? We said our goodbyes and swapped emails with them and then left to go back into Varanasi town to have a wander round again. We went to the Dashashwamedh Ghat and walked along to the main burning ghat. We watched the pyres for a while being pestered by men posing as charity collectors. they were trying it on with lots of tourists but they didn't have much luck. Everyone we have spoken to has had the same feeling of being ripped off by everyone they meet .We were also told if we paid a "fee" it would be no problem to take photos but otherwise it was disrespectful...what!!!!! We didn't really want to take pics of peoples burning relatives but it would have been good to keep a record of the events. We walked along the river again away from the ghat and Phil stopped to take a few shots of the river and the boats there. Three local lads near him took offence thinking he was taking pics of the bodies. They said he would have to go and pay a fee which he said no to as he'd done nothing. They would have taken him to some back alley and beaten him up probably. As he was walking away they were yelling all sorts of abuse at him "never come back to this place, we will throw you on the fire and you will burn" . Thankfully they didn't follow us too far but we were pretty furious as they were trying to make money from the dead which must be the lowest of the low. In all of travels across the continents thats the first time we have come across any kind of aggression like that, not too nice. We decided to go and find somewhere to get a drink and went to a tiny coffee shop in one of the small alleys behind the ghats. We chatted to a newly arrived Souh African girl there who said she'd just arrived from Goa which was really lovely and relaxed. She couldn't believe the filth and poverty in Varanasi and was thinking of going back down south again instead of staying as intended. We felt better about the rest of the India trip after that as a few people had said how dfferent is is there. We decided to return to the ceremonial ghat to watch the Hindu ceremony again as we could get a bit closer from the bank. There was a power cut so it was really dark with only a few candles to light the area so it looked very eerie. he ceremony is performed by seven holymen who perform rituals with flowers, candles, lights, incense and water from the Ganges. It lasts an hour and there are songs and music all the way through. We managed to get really close to the front to see what was going on. After the ceremony had finished lots of people came to the shore of the Ganges and put lit floating candles in the river. We got two for our departed loved ones and popped them off into the rive and watched them float away. After the ceremony we went back to the hotal as we both had colds and felt pretty rubbish. We had hot tomato soup at the hotal and then went to bed to watch a film and then went to sleep.