16/1/10 Delhi to Mumbai

We woke up and got some breakfast then put our bags in storage for the morning as we were going to the airport at 2 to fly to Mumbai. We were going to use the few spare hours waiting trying top catch up our blog but when we got to the internet cafe the electricity had been cut and they had no idea when it would be back. We have had loads of power cuts since we have been in India but most places had a back up generator. We waited in the shop for about half an hour hoping the power would be reconnected but no joy. It was really frustrating as we finally had a bit of time to kill and the computers couldn't be used. The internet connection at the hotel wasn't working either and the staff were in no rush to mend it so we were stuffed. As we walked along we realised the entire streets power wa down so it seemed likely that the power was out for a while so we went back to the hotel to read our travel books and plan the next bit of our trip. Rajiv turned up at 2 to take us to the airport. We had a pretty easy ride to the airport and saw the new domestic terminal on our way to the old one we were using. We checked in our bags with no problems then went to get some food at the only snack bar in the place. Phil had a very dry chicken sandwich asnd Liz had a small chicken pie which was a bit overcooked so nit the best snacks. We wenmt through to the gate area to wait the call foir the flight and when we put our bags through the xray machine there was a problem with Phils bag. The security had spotted the wire in Phils packsafes (reinforced bags we had money and documents in for safety) They had obviously not seen them before and we had tpo get them out to demonstrate. They all looked quite impressed and let us carry on which was a relief as we both thought they were going to take them off us. We spotted a McDonalds in the gate area and had a chicken burger each to supplement the bad food from before. We boarded the plane and it left on schedule for the one and half hour flight to Mumbai. We watched a subtitled Hindi film on the flight which was quite good and thankfully they kept it running until the end despite the fact that was after we had landed. Mumbai airport was very smart and big with all modern amenities. We collected our bags then went through to find some transport into town. We prepaid for a taxi then went to find it. A man poped up from nowhere and said did we want a taxi, we said we had one pre paid and he nodded grabbed our trolley then took us five yards to the car. He wasn't the taxi driver and expected a tip for portering !!!! Our bags barely fit in the tiny boot but the lid was tied down with some rope so it was quite secure. Mumbai was so much cleaner than everywhere else we'd been and there was more wealth there. Even the bad bits looked so much better than we'd seen. We pulled up outside our hotel and went inside. On the internet it looked quite smart and cean but reality bites...us on the bum and it was really in a state of disrepair. We handed over our booking for a deluxe room and they said they hadn't got any so we could have a cheaper room. We weren't happy as we had proof of the booking but the hotel had obviously sold it again. Phil went to look at the room and his face wasa poicture when he returned saying "its a s**thole" . He told reception we weren't paying full price as the room was bad and not worth the money and also they'd cocked up. We checked in and went to the room and Liz agreed it was a really bad room, probably the worst so far and really not that cheap. It was quite dirty with dust everywhere and a lovely brown floor round the toilet...euch!! We don't mind staying cheap when you pay cheap but this was taking the Michael. We decided to leace our bags and go and investigate some alternative hotels to see if we could do any better. We walked away from the hotel towards the main railway station Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus which is a Unesco world heritage site as its such an amazing old building. It looked really impressive in the blue skies and bright sunshine. As we walked along we spotted some bollards and stands been erected for some events. A security guy told us that the Mumbai marathon was on the next day so they were setting up. We were lucky to have arrived when we did as we would be able to watch the race. We carried on walking and called into two hotels which weren't a good deal better than the one we were in so we decided to stay put. We had been spoiled on our expensive trip in the North where we had some nicer hotels but now reality was hitting that our rooms were going to be a bit poor. We really enjoyed walking around Mumbai as we weren't approached by anyone. We could walk around with no hassles and it made such a refreshing change. We went back to the hotel and thew restaurant next door which was very nice. They gave us "not spicy" tikka which Phil had to leave as it was so hot. Like SE Asia they can't do unspicy food, but it is all really tasty.Phil took his food and we gave it to some people sleeping rough under the railway bridge nearby and they grabbed it out of his hands . We went back to the hotel as it was quite late and went to bed.

17/1/10 Mumbai

We woke up, popped our laundry in to be as we'd avoided getting them washed in the Ganges. We went out about ten and walked up towards the station where the marathon start and finish were. The main race had already finished and we passed teams of runners who had run the course in relays. There were also people who'd run half and full marathon distances. We congratulated people we saw and they were really friendly with big smiles. Ther was no traffic as the roads were closed so it was really easy for us to get around. There was a really pleasant atmosphere around the place with people cheering in the runners. There were a few men with gay rights signs and also some fathers for justice campaigners...things are obviously more liberal here. There was a TV crew and a naval helicopter filming the event and a real buzz in the air. Lots of people approached us to ask where we were from and our names, without following up with a sales pitch...lovely. We saw an amputee being photographed who had run the race. We took a few pics of runners and watched the first Indian woman finish as we walked along the course for a while. The streets were really clean and lined with tall Victorian and Colonial buildings. There were lots of long tree lined avenues and the people looked much more affluent and they had very good English. We were well away from Mumbais massive and famous slum area though so were protected from the poverty. We spoke to one guy who had been to Nottingham and throught England was so organised compared to India and mentioned how the cars actually stop at traffic lights !! We said we liked Mumbai and he said "it was left by your people" which we presumed meant the British. We walked along a road called Dr Dadabhal Naoroji (what a mouthful) towards the flora fountain where there was a marathon torch lit. There were lots of big bank buildings around there and it all looked very grand. We walked through an area called Churchgate towards Marine Drive where Mumbai meets the Arabian Sea. The coast wall was quiet and peaceful with just a few locals hanging around so we sat there for a while taking in the view. We could see across to the high rises of the city and over to Mumbais famous Chowpatty Beach (no not Cow Patty!!) . It was really sunny and warm and we enjoyed being able to just watch the world go by without any hassle. We walked a bit further to try and see Brabourne stadium , Indias Oval wher ethe cricket tests are played. As usual though there was tight security and you couldn't go in without being a member and photos were prohibited even from outside the gates. We left there and walked towards the towns park . We stopped in a little local place for some food and then found our way to Maiden Oval a huge green area for the people to use. The area was about 4 times the size of a football field and there were hundreds of boys and men there playing over a hundred games of cricket. There were balls flying in all directions and somehow they weren't mixed up. We stayed to watch on eof the games for a while and had a laugh with the two teams as catches were dropped and good hits were made. It was such a nice atmosphere there and it had a real feeling of a Sunday afternon. Alot of Mumbais shops are closed on a Sunday like the good old days so it was nice to see peope out enjoying themselves..the males at least. The Maiden is surrounded by lots of big Victorian, gothic and colonial buildings and so looks lovely. We walked across the park through to the university. We wanted to take a walk around the grounds but there was security there who stopped us in our tracks. Mumbai has seen its fair share of terrorist attacks and bombings recently so we can't complain. We carried on walking heading for India Gate monument passing the Regal theatre where the Bollywood film premieres take place apparently. India Gate is a huge basalt gateway bult to comemorate the royal visit in 1911 of King George V and Queen Mary. It can be seen by the boats arriving in Mumbai harbour and resembles the Arc De Triomphein Paris. The place was teeming with Indian tourists most of whom were queuing to go on boat trips to Elephanta Island. The island has some ancient Hindu and Buddhist cave temples burt we decided not to go as we were going inland to see Indias best cave temples anyway. There were many people walking around selling things and we were instantly targetted as the only westerners there. Another phenomenom we encountered was the Indian peoples fascination wih us. They were really staring at both of us and many people came up to speak to us and take our photo as if they'd never seen white faces before. Once one had a photo loads more followed and stood next to us with their families to get a photo ... bizarre, we really aren't that exciting. We walked away from the first line of photographers to look around some more when a young girl tied some flower bracelets to our wrists for "free" . She said she didn't want any money but would we buy some food for her baby. She walked us away from the gate to a store where the owner asked nearly ten pounds for some milk !! She was obviously up to no good scamming us and would probably share the money with the shop owner. We didn't pay up and felt really annoyed to have been scammed again. The people stop at nothing to get some money out of people. We walked across to a quiet spot to sit and people watch but almost a soon as we sat down people came for photos. They would sit down right next to us without asking and take photos right in our faces. We would never do that to anyone without checking first. It felt pretty rude really but we thought the peoplewere very nice and all said thankyou afterwards. After a while we had to leave to beleft alone and we walked across to see one of Mumbais smartest hotel. The Taj Mahal Hotel and Tower is apparently beautiful inside and is a lovely example of the architecture of the British Raj but again security wouldn't let us inside. We had read about a cafe called Leopolds so set off to find it. We found it near to a few bazaars which we wandered through first. Phil bought himself a couple of new rocks and we mad eit to Leopolds. You needed to pass by security to get in to the packed cafe but we decided not to bother and find a quieter local one. We found one just around the corner with no tourists and had a drink. We chatted to a local couple there and the man had lived in Cyprus for two years living in Limassol. He knew Pafos, where Phils parents live well. We chatted to them about Mumbai sites and they hadn't heard of half of the places Lonely Planet recommends...worryingly. Next we went off to use the internet in a little shop but the owner wouldn't let us use te computers without seeing our original pasports first. We had copies with us and he only needed to write down the number but wasn't happy to use them saying it was police rules. We went to our shop to ask about a tour of the famous Mumbai slums but it wasclosed as it was Sunday. We went to another one nearby and they offered us a day tour of the city in a taxi for 2000 rupees but we declined knowing we could get a better price on our own. Next we tried aother nternet shop which was more relaxed and the man there only wanted one pasport number for both of us. They claim its an anti terrorist thing but how many terrorists will carry their accurate documents anyway...madness. We stayed there for a while chatting to various people on Facebook and sorting some train tickets. We left to head for Leopolds to get some food but it was really busy still and full of tourists so we made our way back to our hotel area where things are more low key. We stopped at a couple of trendy loking bars but the prices were too much forus s we ended up going into a locals bar where Liz was the only woman so we had lots of stares. We ordered beers and sat there a while until another British couple came and sat next to us. We joined them chatting away for a while over another beer. They were both pretty drunk after having several Indian whiskeys and the female of the pair was being pretty full on with the local men who didn't know what to do as they aren't used to women being so drunk and in their faces. It was a bit embarassing really and we were glad to get back to our room , which we didn't think we'd say. Our laundry all came back very clean so we were glad we'd waited till after the Ganges version. We went to bed as we had another early start the next day to tour Mumbai.

18/1/10 Mumbai

We got up early and had a free breakfast no one had mentioned to us when we checked in. We went outside the hotel and were approached by several taxi drivers. The first one didn't really speak English and couldn't understand where we wanted to go and so we went with another who spoke a bit. He said he would take us to the places for 1000 rupees which was half the price of the day before offer. We got into the cab and the driver took us to see Chowpatty Beach, Indias answer to Bondi but without the bikinis and life guards. We walked across the beach to the sea but the water is toxic so its not safe for paddling and swimming. There were a few people there including a group of school children obviously wagging off. A crowd gathered around and they asked us the usual questions, where are you from? what is your name? what are you doing here? and then asked Phil to take their photo.Not only do they like taking photos of us they like to take photos of them . One of the lads starting doing all sorts of acrobatics for Phil to photograph...really funny. There were one or two beggars asking for rupees and a small tented shanty on the beach too. We walked around a little more before returning to the taxi. We had passed by a lovely looking building on the coast which was apparently a new hospital but looked more like a luxury hotel...must be private. Next we went to see Banganga Tank up on Malaber Hill which is a quiet area of small lanes and a few little temples free of traffic. In the middle of the settlement is huge pond of holy water with a wooden pole representing the centre of the earth. It is said to have been shot there by Lord Ram and represents the centre of the earth and is a holy pool as a result. The Banganga area is a settlement of small houses and is vehicle free and also backs onto the sea behind some of the houses down little alleyways. We walked through the settlement down some steps and found the pool which was quite large. There were ducks and birds in the water and some people there too. People come on a pilgrimage to washin the holy water and several people came and washed in some fresh looking water from an inlet pipe. There were children there too and it ws a very light atmosphere with alot of laughter and smiles. We watched from the side for a while and the peole were very friendly not too bothered by us watching. We were the only westerners there so we were a bit of a novelty to them too. Some of the children came over and were really polite with pretty good basic English. They asked us our country, our names, our fathers name and our mothers name. Bless them, they were so sweet and we had our photos taken with them. They were all quite small despite being from 7 to 12 years old. We left the pool and the children ran after us to say thankyou...lovely. We walked out of the area via the streets backing onto the pond. There were a few people there selling fruit and vegetables and a cow tethered in the street which was the most healthy one we'd seen so far. The houses were simple but alot cleaner than some we'd seen. We left the streets and looked at the "beach" but unfortunately it was where the settlement put all its rubbish so it wasn't a pretty sight. We went back to the car and went to see Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens otherwise called the Hanging Gardens. The gardens were planted on top of a water reservoir supplying Mumbai. They are a formal gardens with vegetables and flowers growing in a large area with walkways and benches between. It was quite peaceful but there were alot of visitors all sitting around the lawned areas. Beyond the garden are the Towers of Silence, closed to visitors, which is the place the Parsi people leave their dead. They believe fire earth and water are sacred so can't use other burial or cremation methods and so corpses are left to be eaten by vultures that we saw flying above. We couldn't see to the actual towers but we saw plenty of birds flying round. We crossed over the road to take a quick lok in the Kamala Nehru Park which had great views across Chowpatty Beach to the city scape beyond. It was alovely clear day and we had a good view. In the park is a childrens play area in the shape of a giant boot. Phil , the big boy, ran off up to the top to get his picture taken, passing the sign saying noone over twelve allowed inside !!! There was a lovely display of Bonsai trees there too with some really fabulous specimens. We drove further northwards through the Breach Candy area towards the cities laundry when we pulled up to visit a Ganesh temple. We left the car and walked to the entrance gates. A security guard wouldn't let us in with cameras even if we didn't take any pictures. He said we could only go in one at a time so one of us could wait outside with the cameras ! Liz decided to have a lok first to see if it was worth seeing but didn't get very far. After the usual security metal detector screening there was along walk down a path lined with stalls selling all sorts of tat. Halfway down but still out of sight of the temple men started yelling at Liz to leave her shoes. It all seemed one big hassle by then so we decided to give it a miss and neither of us particularly wanted to leave our shoes and walk over the filthy floors to see the temple. We would of course remove our shoes if it was near the doorway as is normal practice but we were expected to pay yet another fee for the men looking after them. We got back to the car and we drove to see one of Mumbais oldest institutions, its outside laundry area called Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat. It is 139 years old and is a huge area where most of Mumbais laundry is done in 1026 of open troughs. We watched for a while from a bridge over the railway next to it. We could see many workers wringing out, hanging, flattening, foldong, soaking and agitating the fabrics. It was quite colourful wih all the garments and linens hanging on huge lines all over. It seemed to work like clockwork as it had done since it started. They were using some relatively modern spin driers in some parts but otherwise most of the processes were by hand. We decided to try and get a closer look and walked down to the laundry area. Once at the gateway there was a sign from MUmbai police saying photos weren't allowed inside the ghat. A man approached us and said for 100 rupees each we could take photos andhe'd show us round. It was another scam claiming to give money to the workers but as we walked around the people were more than happy to smile adn let us look at what they were doing. It might have been a genuine one this time, who knows. We walked around the streets to another entrance inside but another man stopped us and said we had to pay again ! We have ATM on our foreheads apparently. The guide told us loads of shirts hangong out to dry were for sale in the US and we were sure plenty of items bound for Britain were probably there too. Our laundry probably got washed there too and if it was they did a great job. After leaving the laundry we drove on to see a large muslim mosque caled Haij Ali connected to the mainland by a causeway open at low tide. We had a fair way to walk from the car and had a couple of busy roads to tackle but used the subways instead which were suprisingly smells free unlike ones at home. Once at the mosque, we went inside , via metal detectors and security of course and walked across the causeway to the mosque. It was really busy there with lots of pilgrims. We were the only westerners again and Liz was the only western dressed female so we had lots of stares again but we are getting used to that. We sat there for a while watching the people and listening to some music being played by a musical band who were singing too. All along the causeway was lined with beggars on one side and shops selling all sorts or rubbish on the other side. People did seem to be giving to the beggars there which was good to see. The Arabian sea which surrounded the mosque was full of floating rubbish. Two children had made rafts from sacks filled with plastic bottles so they could sail out and collect more to sell. We walked back to the car and then drove to our last stop at the Mani Bhavan , Mahatma Ghandi museum. It was tiny but filled with really interesting pictures, quotes and dioramas depicting Ghandis amazing life.