During the 8 hour journey to Luang Prabang, the overloaded boat (seems to be a common theme out here) stopped a few times. At one point, a local got on causing a number of passengers to walk to the left side of the boat; should others have followed we may have capsized. A woman then walked through with a large fish flapping around. There were then shrieks from the front; another Lao women appeared carrying, by its leg, a large rat type animal called a Len. Like the fish it was still alive. The fish went to the very back of the boat out of sight. We later found out that they put it in a shallow bucket of water and the fish flapped around so much that it flicked all the water out and died. The Len had a similar fate as the locals put it in a hessian bag by the toilet door; we think it probably suffocated (from the bag not the toilet!!).

Anyway, we finally arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos mid-afternoon on Wednesday 7th July. We couldn’t wait to get off the boat and stretch our legs. It was hot and sticky, and walking with our luggage wasn’t particularly great although at least this time we disembarked on a pier. We found a really nice Hotel called Sala Prabang opposite the Mekong River and negotiated a price with them for a room with a good view of the River and air con, which was most welcomed.

With the bags safely locked in the room, we strolled around the streets to the bars and restaurants. We sat in a chill out bar with a few cocktails and chatted to two couples who were also travelling. We found the town to be very relaxing and knew then that we would be staying here a few days. Following this, we had great dinner in a restaurant called “Coconut Garden”. We went for the set menu to share which consisted of rice, chicken satay, vegetables in oyster sauce, and a Laos-style omelette - total price £5. Afterwards, we went to a wine bar and sipped a nice Sauvignon Blanc while chatting to a couple from the Netherlands......how very civilised!!!! There is a heavy French influence in Luang Prabang and the town is very pretty.

That night we watched football in our hotel with the staff and their friends. Unfortunately, 10 minutes into the footie, there was a power cut and the whole town was thrown into darkness. With no sign of the power returning, we decided to go to bed. Laos is known for power cuts so it’s always a must to carry a torch!!

In the morning we had breakfast on the veranda beside the Mekong River. It’s difficult to explain, but there is something very special about watching the Mekong River. The serenity was only occasionally broken by the “putt-putting” of the long boats cruising back and forth. During breakfast we spoke to a couple of Americans who came out with what had become the standard line of “Are you Australian?”

After breakfast we did the walking tour of Luang Prabang. Mark had been given a guidebook on Laos and Cambodia from a friend at work (Gurmat - if you are reading this, it has been invaluable) which suggested a walking tour that took in some great temples (known as “Wats”) – Wat Pua Hak, Royal Palace, Temples on Sisavangvong and Sakkarine, Wat Xieng Thong, Wat Visoun and Wat Ahan. We had to walk up 355 steps to get to one of them at Mount Phousi. It did have great views and was definitely worth the 20,000 Kip per person (about £1.65 each). This particular day was very hot and it wasn’t long before we wished we had left the walking until late afternoon as the guidebook had suggested.

We stopped for lunch in a place called Lao Lao Garden Bar which is very popular for tourists, especially of a night. It also had free Wi-Fi, which was handy. During our stay there, a Russian guy had clearly had so much to drink that he kept passing out on his laptop. The finale was when he almost fell on the floor yanking the power cable out of the wall and accidentally pulled out his headphones from the computer for us all to hear Russian folk music blaring from his computer. We left the bar and continued onto Dara Market where Lisa bought a small rucksack.

We toured a different part of town taking in some great bars and cafes en-route. One being a great place overlooking the pond full of water lilies and frogs, it was a fantastic setting.

We didn’t go back to the hotel to shower as normal as we completely lost the track of time. Instead we booked a trip to the Kuang Si waterfalls for the next day and had a few drinks with a mixed group that we had met on the boat from Thailand. It was somewhat ironic that they suggested a drink at the Lao Lao Garden. We couldn’t believe it but 9 hours later the Russian was still in the same seat, barely conscious, drinking more BeerLao!!!!

Luang Prabang operates a curfew so the bars shut at 11pm (the time that our hotel says it closes the doors!!) and everyone is to be in their rooms/ guest houses by midnight. Once again, we had lost track of time and were still in the bar at 11:30pm. We got to the hotel at midnight and woke up the reception/ security staff who were asleep under a mosquito net on the floor – all rather strange.

The next day we went to the Kuang Si waterfall; it was very impressive with multiple tiers and a number of levels were ok to swim in......so Lisa took a dip. Mark ventured to the top of the falls and took a couple of photos before also jumping into the water. At one of the levels, there was a rope swing but we decided not to have a go as we knew there were rocks about.

The last day saw us touring the night market, which is really well presented. The bartering was fun which probably explains why Lisa ended up with three pairs of earrings, two silk shawls, a bangle and a necklace. Mark’s purchase of the evening had happened about half an hour earlier when he downed a snake whisky with the locals. The odd coloured liquid (we dread to think how long it had been there) sat in a huge bottle which was filled with lizards, snakes and scorpions!! Mark paid 5,000kip for the shot and the same again for one of the locals........about 80p in total. The drink took Mark’s breath away for a few seconds. Just the one was enough! The evening’s finale was a wonderful foot and shoulder massage.

On the day of departure, Mark got up at 5:45am so he could go to the main street to see 300 monks walk through the streets in a process called “making merit”. This consists of locals, and some tourists, kneeing on the street presenting rice and other basic food to the monks who collect their day’s provisions from the well wishers. It’s strange but interesting to watch. Lisa stayed in bed having some “zzzzz”.

We both loved Luang Prabang, so did the other travellers, but as they say “all good things come to an end”. It was now onwards to Phonsavan, Laos to see the Plain of Jars.