We couldn’t leave Kratie quick enough. The town had nothing much to offer except for sightings of the fresh water Irrawaddy dolphins that swim in the Mekong River. We walked around the town and found it to be dirty and offering little for tourists. It therefore wasn’t difficult to get up early, pack our rucksacks and be ready to jump in the taxi that was organised by Chhonn (from ActionAid) for 11am. It turns out that it was much better than some of the taxi ...

As we drove into the Cambodian darkness we both reminisced about the fantastic time we had in Siem Reap and the people that we had met who would leave a lasting impression. We settled into our seats with thoughts fresh in our minds, looking forward to a sedate cruise through the empty roads on the coach as the literature had explained. How wrong we were. Lisa had remarked on the quality of the main roads in Cambodia a number of times; they were pretty good. Howe...