So, after a long bus journey to northern Malaysia on a bus (with no toilet!), we arrived in Kuala Besut, the tiny fishing village that is the gateway to the Perhentian Islands. Jim booked the boat tickets and we went to wait down by the harbour. We had chosen Pelau Perhentian Kecil - 'Kecil' meaning 'small' in Malay- as it is the most popular with backpackers due to cheaper prices and its more party atmosphere. Sounded good to me! The speedboat to the island took about half an hour, and the views along the way were amazing. As soon as we entered the shallower area between the two islands, the water became crystal clear and you could see fishes and coral everywhere. Jim managed to pick up a random Swiss diver who would not have been out of place in an Ali G sketch. He would not stop talking. I turned my back, leaving Jim to enjoy the incessent banter, and enjoyed the journey... When you are dropped off on the island, you get picked up by little speedboats that help you take your bags ashore (for 2ringitts a piece - the cheek!). Then it is a race till the death to try to find somwehre to stay. very few places will take bookings, so its kind of first come first serve. We ran ahead of some others and managed to bag a room at the first place we tried - Matahari Chalets. Chalets were very basic - a bed, a mozzie net and a geckho basically. The toilets are communal, allowing you to share in the pleasure of evryone elses's stomach upsets and hangover vomiting.