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The day had finally arrived... it was time for Bennie boy and I to get a bit of winter sun. A trip to Bali was on the cards. London-Singapore Singapore to Bali...2 days of travelling was the only thing between us and some sun, sea and cocktails.
After our early start to Heathrow, we only had a short wait until our flight. We were seated on the upper level, or top deck as I call it, of the a380. Who needs business class when you've got just 2 seats in your row and a nice bit of space to put your feet up...well that was my thought until they make you walk through business class to get to your seats. It's the most annoying, rub it in your face situation, do you not agree? I'm still dreaming of the day I can afford a business class flight, just to be able to sleep. The flight was long but I watched a few films to pass the time. We had a short stop off in Singapore airport before continuing on to Bali.
As we landed and started walking off the plane, the heat hit me. The only problen with coming for a bit of winter sun is that because it's freezing at home you tend to wrap up to go to the airport and then when you arrive at your sunny holiday destination, you've turned up looking as if your going bloody skiing. I had a jumper, joggers, scarf and a huge Eskimo coat with me. Hardly the holiday wardrobe.
After the tense wait of getting our bags, we got a taxi from the airport to our lovely villa. The drive there was like my worst nightmare. I can only describe it as total chaos.
I have no idea how the road system works in Bali or even if there is a road system. Cars seem to drive all over the place, there's 3 or 4 lanes of cars on what looks like a two lane road. There are mopeds everywhere coming at you from the left and right and you've never heard beeping like it with the cars driving up the middle of the road dodging the mopeds and other cars. There is just so much impatience.
Whoever drives these mopeds seem to have no fear. I saw one lady sat on the back, sideways as if she was a princes riding a horse, no protective gear on just giggling to herself.
It took our driver a little while to find our place but we eventually arrived. We checked in, freshened up and made our way to Seminyak for some exploring.
We went down to the main beach, had a wander around the stalls and then had a little gander at the bigger beach clubs which were just luxury. We stopped off at one of them for some lunch and a few beers to start the holiday. It was bliss. We chilled there until sunset. The sunset was just beautiful, a view I could get definitely used to.
After the sun set we made our way back to the hotel to get an early night. 2 days travelling was a killer.
Ben was up and ready at 6am to start the day. During a lovely breakfast we had a chat with the owner of the villas who gave us lots of tips and ideas about where to visit. We then arranged to go on our first outing, which involved a little trip to see the elephants.
Something I noticed whilst booking the trip was that Balinese people will only address people with sir. So I could be the one talking but they would turn to Ben and say thank you sir. I thought it was a mistake at first but it then happened a few more times. I felt like I was being ignored or they thought I was actually a guy. It was a bit weird and slightly rude but of course Ben was loving it. Anyways, our guide turned up and off we went.
We had the loveliest tour guide, Yudi, he was just adorable. It was only Ben and I on the tour which was great. First stop was Bali Zoo and the elephant experience. On our journey there, we learned about the different celebrations and holidays of Balinese people and that we were actually in Bali for one of the holidays which they celebrate once every 6 months, called Galungan. He said there is always a build up to the day with lots of offerings and ceremonies before the big day. It was very interesting. He also told us about a day that Bali has once a year called Silent day. On this day everything stops, there are no cars on the road, nothing open, they can't leave their houses and can't even use the electricity in their own homes... no TVs, no radio, no internet. I think it's a great idea, but realistically, how on earth would the uk ever cope with a day like this? I guess we'll never know.
On arrival to the zoo, we purchased our tickets and made our way straight to the elephant trek. Don't you just love elephants? I know I do. Getting on an elephant isn't the easiest though, it was a bit of a wobbly experience but nothing compared to getting on a camel, that was kinda scary.
Our elephant took us around the park and through the river. I'd love to have my own elephant but I'd have great difficulty getting one in my garden.
After the ride we went to go and feed and stroke our elephant. She even put some flowers around our necks with her trunk. Impressive, right?
After parting with the elephants we went on a walk around in the sweltering heat to see the animals in the Zoo. There were so many monkeys in this zoo. They were just too cute, swinging from tree to tree. We met Jackie the Orangutan, who was a lazy b***** chilling in her cave area. There were lions being fed, saltwater crocs (my mum would have freaked) and so many other animals.
We'd built up an appetite walking around so went to the animal encounter for some lunch. We dined with a baby alligator and a gibbon. Yes we actually held an alligator. It was quite scary and I think at this point my mum would have passed out. Of course Ben decided to take the tail end, while I was left with the head and teeth. I’ve never been so still in my life, we were honestly like statues, until the man took it back from us. The gibbon on the other hand was just adorable. I almost ran off with him. I think I need to open a zoo in my tiny garden. I want too many animals.
After saying goodbye to our new friends we made our way back to meet Yudi. Next stop was a home where they handmade silver jewellery. It was interesting to see the process and how long it actually takes to make 1 piece. We went in to have a nose at all the beautiful pieces, only to look though...a little pricey for us.
Next up, a visit to our first temple. We got our skirt wraps on and Yudi showed us around. Each section was really beautiful, ceilings decorated with gold and amazing hand carved statues. Everything was also decorated ready for their celebration day.
It was so interesting to hear about their culture and the process they go through to do an offering by praying to the different gods. It's quite a long process, but I was intrigued to see a ceremony.
Next up was the Coffee plantation, here we did some coffee & tea tasting. Who knew there were so many different flavours. I'm not a fan of coffee but it was interesting to taste a ginger coffee and feel the burn at the back of your throat. That was quite a pungent flavour! Along with our taster ones, Ben ordered a local coffee which they referred to as poop coffee...yes poo coffee or as I like to call it... capPOOchino. Basically they have animals on site who eat some of the coffee beans and then they poo them back out. This is then collected and left to dry and be cleaned, then it's turned into coffee. A very strange process but apparently the most popular coffee in Bali. Not sure it was for me really, I’ll stick to tea.
We both enjoyed the mocha, so we bought some from the locals before getting back in our ride. As we got chatting to Yudi on the way back we talked about arranging another trip with him and he said that the following day he would be visiting his temple which he does once every 6 months and asked if we would like to join him before going on our trip. Of course we said yes, so then he got excited and said he wanted to show us how his family sets up for the celebrations happening in a week. Before heading back to the hotel he took us to his family home which was a traditional Balinese house. It was incredible.
A traditional house in Bali has different buildings for each room so one building is a kitchen and one a bedroom etc... and all these are linked by a beautiful garden with a huge communal area. They also have their own temple at home which is always located in the East, the direction of the large Volcano (agung mt). The reason for this is because the volcano is the tallest thing in Bali meaning it's the closest thing to the Gods. Just a little fact for you.
We met his mum, daughter and two dogs, one of which was a rare breed dog which you would only find in Bali. He was from Mount agung, a very beautiful dog.
In the middle of his communal area he had a huge Mango tree and also a Kaddongdong tree. I had never heard of this fruit before. He picked some from the tree for us to try (which tastes like a dry version of an apple if you wanted to know :).) along with some mangos.
After chilling with Yudi and his family for an hour he asked if I wanted to drive his scooter back to the villa. I had a practice, attempting to drive it around the garden. It's safe to say I am not meant to drive a scooter. It was just a disaster! If I couldn't drive it there I would never have been able to drive it on the roads amongst the crazy drivers. It was much safer that we were taken back.
We had arranged to meet again in the morning at Yudi’s home. We were a little late turning up. I'm not sure what was in the fruit but we were out for the night. We walked over, passing some great little vintage furniture shops. I just loved all their hand made things, they were very quirky.
We arrived at his house where Yudi and his wife were waiting. They had some traditional outfits ready for us to wear to the temple. We were embracing the culture and became Balinese for the day. Ben more so than me. He was getting right into it.
We got ready and off we went to the first temple (Yudi's wife's temple) where he went in to do his offering. He came out after a little while with some treats (fruit, cake etc) in return for what he had given.
In the car on the way to his family temple he asked me if I was menstruating! I was quite shocked. A bit personal considering I'd only known him for a day. I then found out that the reason being was it is forbidden to enter a temple if you are menstruating. Luckily that wasn't the case.
We were actually invited in to Yudi’s temple to watch a ceremony. Everyone was so friendly and loved that we were there. To our surprise we then got told to sit on the floor with one of the offering baskets, which has different coloured flowers and incense in, and we were going to do our own offering.
It is a long procedure. We had to take different parts from the basket and pray with them. Each colour flower represented different things. I was following Yudi and what he was doing with one eye open.
Once it finished another lady came over with a brush and water, which she then flicked at us individually on our heads and then in our hands. When it was in the hands we had to drink it and on the head we had to wipe through our hair. I think it's a cleansing process but you got very wet. It was so good to be part of what they do on a day to day basis.
Next stop for us was Bali swing. I'd seen lots about this online and really wanted to go and what a great experience it was. We were king of the swingers for a few hours to get us in the mood for the monkey forest. They had a number of different swings that swung out onto a beautiful forest and river area. It was instagram heaven.
They had some small swings and some quite scary. There was one which you had to be harnessed on, which had quite a steep drop and swung very high, but we had to have a go. I let Ben go first to see what he was like coming off, as you do. He was fine, so I was up next. I was a bit nervous and it didn't help that the guy controlling the swing kept calling me Chelsea. I kept saying Josie, Josie, JOOOSSSIE his response was just 'Chelsea?' Ben just got to the point where he just cut across and was like 'ye that's it why not.' Next thing I know I was off. Swinging towards the blue sky. My heart was in my mouth but what a view.
We had a traditional Balinese buffet for lunch before heading off to Ubud to see the actual king of the swingers.
Ubud is a beautiful little town, lots to see as we were driving through, but it was the monkey forest we were excited about, especially Ben.
Before we even entered the forest the monkeys were everywhere. Jumping from wall to wall, play fighting with each other without the slightest fear of the people gathered around.
As we walked into the forest there were two monkeys just sat at the top of a fence, one with a pack of cigarettes and one with a lighter. They'd clearly been rummaging through someone's rucksack. It was hilarious to see. They were like the naughty kids of the pack not giving a s***.
We passed one monkey, casually playing with the penis of another monkey. I mean there's a time and a place for that, right? But I guess we were trespassing on their territory.
What we noticed when walking around was that if you had a rucksack on your back you were screwed. You would just see the monkeys watch as the rucksacks passed by and then bam, they were on the persons back trying to unzip it. One monkey tried to steal a necklace, the girl wasn't impressed and started pulling back, which pissed off the monkey and the teeth came out. Warning to anyone visiting there, if you piss them off they can get very vicious.
There were a number of monkey fights on the way round, which scared me, they were super fast and if you got in the way of a chase or a fight then you would become involved. It was quite traumatic at times.
The baby monkeys were the cutest and so tiny. They clung to their mums the whole time.
The forest they live in was just amazing and so picturesque. There are two abandoned temples there which are now taken over by monkeys and an enormous tree in the middle of a river with a bridge built through the middle. It was just incredible to see.
As we continued our walk around there were loads of monkeys playing games in the water just sneaking around the edge of the water waiting to push each other in. So cute.
At one end of the forest there was a Blind monkey, who had a rehabilitation area just for him as he wouldn't be able to survive amongst the other monkeys. He just looked so lonely and sad but it was keeping him alive.
One girl got peed on by a monkey, which was her own fault enticing him on to her shoulder and a different monkey latched on to her friends bra trying to take it. She then became surrounded by monkeys just attacking her and started biting at her neck. I would have been terrified. But watching it was quite funny. Definitely would have made 'you've been framed'.
So on our drive out of the forest we noticed that the monkeys don't only stay in the jungle but they also roam the streets as well...a bit like Abu on the look out for food and other things to steal.
Our last stop of the day was Tegenungan waterfall for some beautiful views. To get to it was a trek. We had to go down about 1000 large steps to get to the bottom, but it was worth it. Yudi said we were lucky to visit it on a sunny day as if it was raining the water falling is usually brown and muddy, which wouldn't have been as nice to see.
We had a little wander at the bottom of the waterfall but then started the walk up to the top. It was ridiculously high but right at the top of the waterfall was a long stream with little caves and mini waterfalls. I just loved it.
To cool off I decided to have a little dip under one of the smaller waterfalls before making the climb not only back down to the bottom of the fall but also back up to the car. That was a fitness test. Bloody hell it was hard! With shortness of breath and feeling like I was dying we had made it back.
That was the end to the BEST day. It was so much fun.
We decided that after two long days of tours and travelling to spend a day relaxing at one of the beach clubs in Kuta. We had a little lie in and some breakfast then made our way down to Alila. We had two beds right on the sea front with waiter service and a pool to cool off in. What more do you need for a relaxing day at the beach?
The fruity cocktails and beers had flowed all day as we soaked up the Bali sun... and I mean literally soaked it up. By the end of the day we were fried. Burnt to a crisp! Ouch I hear you say? Ouch indeed! It was bloody painful.
We stayed and watched the sun set on the sea, which was just lovely! But once the sun had gone down reality kicked back in and I knew we had one uncomfortable nights sleep ahead of us.
Another day, another trip, this time to visit the beaches of Bali and Tanah lot (a temple on the sea).
Our first stop was Jimbaran beach, one of the southern beaches. It wasn't too long a drive there. It was a lovely white sand beach & very quiet. We got ourselves 2 beds and chilled under the umbrella for a few hours before heading to our next stop.
On our way to Padang Padang beach I saw a sign to Uluwatu temple, the temple on the cliffs. There are 4 big, famous temples in Bali; Uluwatu temple (on the cliffs), Tanah Lot temple (on the sea), Ulun Danu Bratu (on a lake) and Besakih Temple (in the mountain). I asked our driver if he minded stopping at uluwatu on the way to the beach. He said it was fine so we took a slight detour.
It's an amazing temple with incredible views. There was a walk along the cliffs to see different views of the temple. It wasn't a very long walk but it felt like we were walking the Great Wall of China because the heat was so intense.
There were lots of monkeys around as well keeping an eye on the backpack and food situation just watching as people walked passed. After a wander we headed back to the car and made our way to Padang Padang beach.
Walking down steps of a very small cliff area we reached the beach. This beach was a very small beach packed with locals. There was an event on during our visit, children making sand sculptures and adults making large sculptures out of different fruits. There was a judge walking around marking them all and there were prizes ready to be handed out. It was pretty cool but the heat was just getting unbearable so we didn't hang around to see the winners. We made our way to Tanah Lot temple ready for sunset.
We both fell asleep in the car, and were embarrassingly woken by the driver on our arrival to Tanah Lot. The sun had obviously effected us.
It had cooled down by this point so we walked to the sea front ready for sunset. There were a lot of stalls on the walk, it was clearly a big tourist attraction.
We walked through the gates to the sea and found a few bar/restaurants on a cliff overlooking the little island where Tanah Lot was situated. It took me a little while to decide which one to go in as I wanted the best view, but we found a great spot, sat down, ordered some beers and watched the sun set over the island.
To be honest it wasn't the best sunset I'd ever seen as clouds just appeared and slightly covered the sun but it was a lovely moment none the less.
It was back to the villa after that to change and go for some dinner and cocktails of course. The villas taxi wasn't available to we called a taxi to take us to 'Mya' restaurant and bar. Bluebird taxi picked us up. It's the main taxi service here, just ironic that it has the same symbol and name as Cardiff City FC. It cost us 30,000 rupiah instead of 100,000! So the past 5 days we'd been completely ripped off by the villa! Bluebird taxis from now on!
At the restaurant I ordered a curry. For those of you who know me, this is unusual as spicy foods aren't really my thing but I thought I'd venture out of my comfort zone. When it came, I could smell the spiciness. It was an instant burn as soon as I took a bite of my dipped naan bread. I would love to say it was delicious but my tongue and mouth were just on fire. I think my taste buds are now damaged. Ben just sat there in enjoyment but he was surprised that I ate it as he even found it spicy. Note to self: don't order a curry in Asia again.
The next day we started the day early as our next tour was further away than usual.
It was a 3 hour drive to get to our first stop; Besakih Temple also known to the Balinese as the gateway to heaven. This has a better ring to it don't you think? The drive there was one I'm glad I survived... not only was Yudie a crazy driver zooming in and out of cars and bikes, beeping everyone in his way, but the road to the temple was an equally scary experience. We drove up the narrowest windiest and steepest road you can imagine. We drove past people walking up it. I don't think I would have survived the journey on foot to be fair. Well done to those people but as scary as it was, I sure was glad that I was in an air conditioned car.
When we stopped I thought we'd arrived, but little did I know we still had to walk parts of the mountain, in the boiling heat, But it wasn't so bad, not after seeing the views, they were incredible, especially of the volcano. Don't panic, yes we were quite close to the volcano but it had gone from level four to level 3 so from dangerous to just ‘being worried’, but we were safe anyway as we were in the East. Apparently when the volcano erupts it only effects the North and South of the mountain. So it was all good.
Next on the agenda was Tirta Gangga, the water palace in Bali. This place was absolutely stunning. Every direction was just the picture of beauty. We walked around the gardens and played on the stepping stones, taking in the views. We couldn't get over the size of the fish in the water, they were just HUGE! We fed the fish as well, not that some of them needed feeding at all, the monster fish pretty much got the food every time. The little fish stood no chance.
Once we had seen everything, we made our way back down the mountain and into the car to make our way to another white sand beach (Tenganang). On the way there we saw a huge tree house area. So our driver pulled in to see what it was. It cost like £1 to get in so we went to look around.
Well it was less scary than high ropes because they were actual bridges in the trees, but still terrifying none the less. It took me a bit of time getting around the tree house. There were lots of different areas with a number of ladders and bridges. The worst part was the highest point which was at the top of a 40m high tree. I could barely move at the top but the view was just unreal. 360 degree view of just total beauty. I forgot where I was for a moment until the wind blew and the tree started shaking then it was just back to terror.
Once our feet were safely back on the ground, we chilled out under the trees with a beer before heading to the beach.
We drove on another narrow road and over another steep mountain which took us to a beautiful and very quiet beach, it was so lovely. We had a little wander while the sun was starting to set, then headed to our last stop of the day, a black sand beach.
We were told that the black sand has come from the volcano, when it had erupted. They use that sand now to make salt. We visited a little salt making stall on the beach and they showed us the process of making salt using the sand. I had a little go myself, it was pretty cool. I think I've found my true calling. I just need some black sand beaches in Wales and I'm sorted.
We'd had a long day so Yudie took us back to the hotel. We got back, freshened up and wined & dined to end yet another fun day.
We were late waking up for our final trip day, which was yet another long journey. Yudie was waiting for us at his house again to start our travel to the North. Unfortunately not the North where the handsome John Snow would be waiting, all we had waiting for us up there was a volcano on the verge of erupting.
The long journey took us to our first stop of the day, which was Sekumpull waterfall, one of the most famous waterfalls in Bali.
We had a ride on some scooters down as far as they could take us. I won't lie, it was actually terrifying driving on a very narrow path with a cliff edge to the side of us. We were on separate scooters, being driven by Balinese guys who clearly drive that route everyday, but even knowing that I didn't feel safe. I felt even more sorry for Ben as the route was clearly not designed for tall people. He had a branch to the face every few meters. Hilarious for me but not sure he felt the same.
When the bikes stopped I thought we had arrived at the waterfall area, but I was very wrong. There was still a 500m drop down to where we needed to go. And that part, we had to walk. There were steps after steps, if you can call them that. They were so steep they might as well have been ladders. We eventually got to the bottom dripping with sweat from our early workout. I was very ready for a dip in the water.
I hadn't really thought the situation through, I wasn't wearing a swimsuit and there was nowhere to change. Dilemma! So Ben became my makeshift changing room holding a towel up for me. Probably one of the most awkward scenarios ever…it was very tricky and took me about 10 minutes with everyone just watching. #awks. I finally got myself ready and went for a little swim. As you walk into the water towards the waterfall, it actually takes your breath away. You have to catch your breath when you can because so much water is falling at such a force. It was just what I needed though. Very refreshing.
We also took a walk around to see another 3 waterfalls which were even more beautiful to see before the long climb back up to the top. I had cooled down but not for long… the walk back up was even worse than the walk down. I had to stop twice for a breather. This made me realise how unfit I actually am. I was moaning, but the tour guides actually have to do that everyday…EVERYDAY!!! That's such a tough job.
As we finally got back up to our pick up point, the mopeds were there waiting for us. Another crazy ride ahead before we were back to the safety of Yudi's car. Half way back they stopped for us to have a fresh young coconut water to sip whilst overlooking the rice fields. It was a lovely moment.
Yudi was waiting for us at the top ready to start making our way back to Seminyak. On our return journey we stopped at another viewpoint with yet another swing. It was too picturesque not to stop though. Honestly…there are just views everywhere you go in Bali. You just can't help but stop and take a mental (and physical) picture.
Ulun Danu temple was the final stop of the day. Probably the most famous temple in Bali. As we got out of the car to go and explore we realised that it was much colder in those parts than what we had been used to. We didn't stay long. It was pretty much a quick dash around. We went, we saw and we conquered. It was a very beautiful temple so I would definitely recommend a visit there.
On the way back to our hotel we realised that was our last trip with Yudi. Over the days, he had gone from being just our tour driver to our little sidekick who joined in on all of our trips, even becoming our personal photographer. What a legend.
We said our goodbyes and off we went to get ready for our last night on the island. We ventured out for dinner and stumbled upon a whole area we hadn't seen in Seminyak. Basically the main strip. How we didn't know that was there, I don't know! It was like a whole new world, with so many tourists.
There were loads of bars and restaurants and it was very busy and very touristy, especially as it was Halloween. So many people were out in fancy dress. Before food we went for some drinks in a really cool little bar hidden behind the main strip. They were clearly preparing for a busy night. We enjoyed a quiet drink before the parties started.
We then went to a place called Bali restaurant (original I know) for some dinner and some goodbye cocktails. The food was delicious, and it was a nice way to end the trip.
We had a few hours to kill before our flight back to London. Where better to spend them than in Potato Head beach club. So we packed, had breakfast and made our way there. We got ourselves a bed on the seafront and spent the day chilling in the sun. A lovely morning spent relaxing before a long flight home.
Time went super fast and before we knew it it was time to head back to the hotel to collect our things and on to the airport.
Well… over 8 days we explored a hell of a lot. North, South, East and Central Bali - Check! From my experience I learned that the 3 main things I loved in Bali were… a temple, a waterfall and a swing. So if you're heading there at some point remember to try all 3 things out. We didn't get round to the West but that's ok, I feel like we did so much in such a short time, plus we flew over it anyway, so that counts right? It was absolutely incredible. I wonder where our next getaway will be. It'll probably be our honeymoon so somewhere exciting I'm sure. I'll keep you posted.
Until next time my lovelies.
J.L
Xoxo
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