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We set off from Tulamben driven by one of the guys from the dive resort, and took the same route we had come from Ubud, climbing up into the hills past the incredible terraced rice paddies and through the jungle. We got talking to the other passenger in the car, an Italian pilot called Giovanni who lived and worked in Papua, flying light aircraft up into the mountains to sketchy-sounding airstrips. He was an interesting guy, and we chatted for a while before sitting back to enjoy the scenery. It wasn't long before I was sleeping, and I dozed on and off until Lucy woke me to tell me we were in Sanur, the town we were heading for down near the airport.
Our driver took us down the main street in Sanur, a very touristy beach-resort style town, to a homestay we had read about online. We hopped out, grabbed our bags and walked down a very hot little alleyway off the street to the homestay. We were pleased to find they had one room available for that night, thankfully with air conditioning, and had a quick look before deciding to take it. The room was nothing special but the price was alright for the seemingly expensive Sanur, plus our end-of-trip laziness was increasing with every day and, especially in the heat, we just couldn't be bothered looking around for somewhere else.
We dropped off our bags then took some laundry to a little place up the road, before going for a wander down to the nearby beach. We walked down a road which led us through a gravel lot out onto a paved boardwalk alongside a thin and unremarkable stretch of sand. Although the beach was very long, it was nothing special, but was pleasant enough in the bright sunshine with little waves breaking on a reef a bit off the shore.
We decided to hire some bikes from a lady who had a stall in the gravel lot, and after haggling down to a reasonable price we set off up the paved boardwalk. We cruised along the smooth path between lots of low-key little cafes and beach resorts, all nestled side-by-side. It was pleasant rolling along with the breeze in our hair, but the town didn't really do anything for us. It was very a 'package holiday' kind of place with 90% middle aged couples lounging under parasols on the beach and floating around in the resorts' pools.
We rode up to the end of the boardwalk then turned down a street where we hoped to find the booking office for the Perama ferry, out to the island of Nusa Lembongan. We had originally planned to stay 2 nights in Sanur but decided there wasn't much there for us, so we would head out to the island a day early. Heading to Nusa Lembongan itself hadn't been our original plan, but the high price of the boats to our first intended destination, the Gili islands, had put us off that idea. We found the shop selling the Perama boat tickets and purchased some for the following morning, as well as arranging pickup from our accommodation.
With that taken care of, we set off cruising back down the boardwalk, ringing our bike bells regularly to clear a path between the strolling holidaying couples. We stopped at a little restaurant and had some pasta and nasi goreng at a shady table under some trees. Unfortunately we were plagued by little ants crawling on our ankles so although the food was tasty and the setting nice, we didn't hang around for long. We continued cycling down the boardwalk with the endless strip of sand on our left, past the place where we had hired the bikes and on towards the southern end of town.
The path took us past more little restaurants and bars as well as some fancy looking resorts, all with lots of older couples out on sun loungers in front of them. When we finally reached the end of the path, at a large area of waste ground a couple of kilometres further on, we turned around and rode back up, stopping at another bar for a beer and some water to cool down before making our way back to the lady and returning our bikes at around 3pm.
After getting off the bikes, we walked back down the small road to tha main road, then realised how hot it actually was without the cooling breeze near the sea, especially when on foot rather than on the bike. We made our way back in the stifling sunshine to our room where we took refuge in the air conditioned cool. After a cold shower, we lay down on the bed and realised we were exhausted, and it wasn't long before we both fell asleep.
Some time later we woke and, when I checked my phone, was shocked to find it was half past 6 in the evening. We got up and dressed and went out to find somewhere for dinner. We didn't end up going far, and had a tasty dinner at a restaurant just a few doors down from the entrance to our homestay's alleyway. We ordered some happy hour cocktails which we sipped whilst browsing the menu, then ordered a rijstafel, which was basically a big selection of lots of local dishes to share. We were first given a bowl of noodle soup with chicken and egg flavoured with tamarind, then were presented with a massive platter consisting of beef rendang, seafood curry, chicken satay, mee goreng, chap cay (mixed vegetables in sauce), some chilli sambal and prawn crackers, arranged in little banana leaf parcels around a mountain of fried rice. We made a valiant effort to demolish the entire platter but, although we ate all the meaty and tasty bits, had to admit defeat with about half of the rice left over. This was a strategic move to leave room for the final course, banana fritters with ice cream, which we somehow found space for.
After dinner we walked to a nearby ATM to get out more cash, then had a look in some convenience shops in the area for decent sun cream to take out to the island. We knew there were no ATMs out there and we imagined any sun cream would be overpriced. We didn't end up buying any though and, somehow tired again despite our monster nap, we just went back to our homestay and into our cool room where we had a shower and then got off to bed.
In the morning, I went to pick up our laundry then we packed our things and had a quick breakfast at the homestay before checking out. We waited with our bags at the end of the alleyway for a short time, before a little Perama minibus arrived to take us to the shop near the beach where we'd bought our boat tickets. At the shop, we waited around for a little while before being led, along with a group of other tourists, down to the beach to our waiting boat. We had been expecting a fairly large 'fast ferry' type boat but instead we waded out into the surf and climbed into a long, open wooden boat with two rows of benches, and a long bamboo outrigger running down either side. The outboards were fired up and we were soon on our way out to Nusa Lembongan.
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