Off exploring! Our neighbourhood, once more, was very, very authentic (meaning the sidewalks were broken up and there was garbage and debris everywhere), but within moments we were in the heart of a neighbourhood and a street filled with non-tourist shops. We were delighted not to be attacked from every side by the store owners but, instead, many people simply called out a hello as we walked around, including an entire group of school children who came over to shake our hands and introduce themselves.

We got to the main road that runs parallel to the Nile with no apparent cross roads, so we couldn't figure out a way to the river. We went into a fancy hotel to ask for directions, and we were told we had to go about two kilometres to the Luxor Temple area. The moment we walked back out to the street, we realized our mistake. Walking out of a "fancy" hotel meant we must be rich, so we were offered several taxis and horse carriages immediately. One young man in a carriage seemed very nice, so we broke down and hired him after he offered us a trip for 15 Egyptian pounds vs. the first offer we'd had of 25. Immediately, a cab driver jumped right onto the carriage, offering his services and asking us why we were in a carriage instead of an air-conditioned taxi. We thanked him for telling us about his services, took his card and he jumped off, only to be replaced by a very large, angry man who began yelling at our young driver. It became so over-the-top that Barry said, "Stop the carriage. Stop. STOP!!!" Apparently, the man was another cab driver who was angry because he had first right to everyone at the fancy hotel and no one else was supposed to approach us. After the angry man got off, it turned out that "Mr. Lovely", our driver, was a delightful, young man. When he got us to our destination, we gave him a big tip and told him to go yell at the big bully!

The next negotiation we had to make was for the felucca ride but, thankfully, we knew the price and could negotiate with some confidence. The weird thing about Egypt is that if you know what you are doing and are confident, it is all good, but if you don't know, it's frustrating to realize you've been suckered.

Anyway, here is how it works:

"We're interested in a felucca ride."

"Come with me; good price!"

"No, no. What is the price?"

"Come. We go for a ride and discuss price."

"No. What price, now?"

"How long?

"Hour, hour and a half."

"No good. Then you cannot see Banana Island. Two hours."

"No. We are not interested, then."

"Wait! Where you from?"

"Canada."

"Nice family from Canada, today, we have a good wind. Hour and half we can get you to Banana Island. You have tour there. Is nice."

"Price?"

"240 Egyptian Pounds."

"What??? Forget it. We were in Aswan and it was only 20 pounds and it was much nicer to go around the islands!" (don't forget, dear reader, we didn't actually do the Aswan trip)

"20 pounds? Not possible and this trip nicer."

"Nicer than Aswan?" (eyes raised in disbelief)

"Well…not nicer but different…120 pounds."

"Not a chance. 40 pounds for hour and half."

"You are nice Canadian family. 100 pounds."

"60 pounds and that's my final offer."

"60 not possible, not enough"

"Final offer. Take it or leave it"

Connor then chimed in, "What about 80, right in the middle?"

"Oh, young man, you are very wise. Papa, he is a very wise young man."

"80 pounds including tip?"

"Everything, everything! 80 Pounds!"

"Deal?"

"Deal?"

"Deal!"

And we were off. Our felucca ride was a great decision and Mamoud, our boat captain, was a blast. He and his two young brother-in-laws took us across the Nile to Banana Island (not really an island - just a banana plantation on the west bank; they call it that for the tourists) and he even gave us a personal tour of the site including the banana fields, some farmland and an old 'for sale' house that had a great view over the Nile! The trip was a definite highlight of our time in Egypt!

When we got back to the hotel, we swam for a bit, had lunch and then got ready for a tour of the Karnak and Luxor Temples. Both were great and our university-educated guide, John, had a wicked dry sense of humour, incredible knowledge, and near-perfect English. He made the whole experience interesting and very worthwhile. At the end of the evening, John suggested supper at a restaurant on the east bank of the Nile, and though we were concerned about price, it was a buffet so we could get our money's worth! Our meal was OK, but our company was better. The table included a glacier guide from New Zealand; a medical student from Manchester, UK, with his friend and fellow student, a young Iraqi woman who has lived in Holland for 10 years; two girls from Santiago, Chile - one a graphics design artist and the other a bio med technician; an ESL teacher from Canada currently teaching in Korea; and finally a young man from the US. Needless to say, supper conversation was animated and very interesting and a great way to end the day!