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2/12/2007 - On the Sunday morning, we left Hanoi to head out on a 3 day/2 night excursion to Ha Long Bay, which is famous for its rock formations. We were greeted by an very friendly Vietnamese by the name of Duon (we adopted 'Tim' as his new name while we were out with him) and he was accompanying us as our tour guide for the next few days. Upon reaching the harbour, it dawned on us that Ha Long Bay was becoming a sight-seers haven, with about 250+ boats ready to be launched with all the tourist passengers. However, the reason soon became apparent as we headed out to the rocky islands, as the view could only be described as surreal, and nearing the islands, magnificent. There are supposedly over 3000 islands around the Ha Long Bay area! After lunch on the boat of basic Vietnamese fare (vegie soup, fish, stir-fried vegie, tofu and rice) to first visit a couple of caves, of which the first was beautiful and second slightly dull in comparison! However, we weren't able to fully enjoy that particular experience, due to the strange artificial coloured lighting, and the football crowd in attendance. Next on the agenda was a spot of sea kayaking, so we headed out to a spot further in among the islands to a floating village. These are places where literally a whole village lives in houses floating on the sea, and make a living by selling to tourists on boats. Leanna's illness just wouldn't go away, and she unfortunately had to spend most of the Ha Long Bay trip bedridden (although dutifully attended to by Duon, whose warm hearted personality was growing on us) so Zak and Nikki, paired of in a kayak, along with 2 Irish couples, and a Swedish couple. After an hours worth of kayaking around the islands, everyone headed back to the boat, except for the 2 Irish couples who were nowhere to be seen! Where could they have gone to!? It seemed that they had spotted a far off beach paradise in the distance and had decided to kayak all the way there. Nikki and Zak were about to follow them, but after about 10 minutes of hard rowing, wisely that it was too far away, and that the distant paradise would stay distant! Undeterred, the Irish pushed on, but had not accounted for the fact that evening would be closing in on their way back. Duon was becoming increasingly worried and agitated, while the captain was making jokes about the Chinese abducting the Irish. Duon was about to phone the police in, but out of the darkness, a small boat came bearing the Irish, tired and wet, but unflustered and in one piece. With that mini Lost episode over, dinner was set on the tables, again the same basic Vietnamese fare (this was a recurring theme throughout the whole trip!), although Leanna stayed in her room still unable to face food. Duon thought Leanna might have an aversion to Vietnamese food and offered her some cheese crackers and a triangle of Laughing Cow cheese spread! At least the thought was there! Zak and Nikki stayed on through the evening to play card games with the Irish couples, although Zak was hoping in vain that the Liverpool v Bolton match would be on TV - alas no reception for satellite TV on the boats! Everyone retired to their cabins on the boat for an early evening for an early start the following morning.
3/12/2007 - Next day we headed off to an island called Cat Ba, but not before being boarded by two fellow travellers at breakfast - we were surprised to see that it was the two Americans, Degan and Russ, from the Vang Vieng - Hanoi bus ride! Leanna was going to have her work cut out for her from the off! We were to be spending the night on Cat Ba in one of the beach resorts, but first, the morning activity was a 3hr trek through Cat Ba national park. Leanna stayed behind near the cafe, still crippled by illness, so Zak and Nikki headed out with the rest of the group through thick bush, up a very steep slope, sometimes muddy and sometimes very rocky. It was hard work but it was relished by Zak, and eventually, a very sweaty group of people arrived to a watch tower, positioned precariously upon a rocky summit. The climb to the top of the tower was a bit hair raising at times but well worth it for the magnificent views to be seen. We climbed back down, and trekked back through the park to the bus, waiting to take us to the hotel. After checking in we went for a wander round the beaches, to relax and sunbathe. The seas around the Ha Long Bay area are surprisingly warm, so a paddle was definitely on the cards. However, Leanna had not gambled on being the recipient of private swimming lessons from the Americans, Degan paying particular attention on her ability to lay flat on her back (in the water) . Although Zak and Nikki were amused, Leanna was not impressed by being manhandled in the water, eventually giving Degan the brush off. That evening, after dinner at the hostel, the tour group went out for a few drinks, games of pool and table football at a couple of bars. Leanna continued ignoring Degan, finding Duon the tour guide much more engaging and interesting to talk to, and it seemed that he really opened up emotionally to her - during the course of the trip, he was always eager to learn as much English as possible, and although he was a modest and shy fellow, it became apparent that he had a sharp, intelligent mind and was always entertaing us with jokes and anecdotes. He practically endeared himself to us, especially Leanna who grew a soft spot for him! Leanna had to retire early still feeling under the weather, but Nikki and Zak carried on to a karaoke bar with an Irish couple and Degan. How much the locals appreciated our tone-deaf singing extravaganza was hard to tell, but everyone had a great time and the owner was probably more than happy with our extra custom!
4/12/2007 - Next morning we left Cat Ba Island on a 3 hour return boat trip to Ha Long Bay, where we had lunch before departing for Hanoi and for the 12 hour journey to Hue that awaited us.
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