Today a little girl's dream came true.
This morning I held a pyramid in the palm of my hand. This afternoon I looked into the eyes of Tutankhamen. I may have even shed a little tear.
I cant even begin to describe what today has meant to me. To think that I have dreamt of these things for decades and today I was there and I saw and I touched!
We had an early start, leaving the hotel for the pyramids at 7.30am because we wanted to beat the crowds. Mohamed assured us it wouldnt be crowded as tourist numbers are very low since the Revolution. Still, we wanted as much time there as we could possibly get.
Our first glimpse was the very top of the Great Pyramid through the Cairo smog. Just a grey triangle against a paler grey sky, but thrilling nevertheless. Before we knew it we were pulling into the carpark and they were right there in front of us. The carpark was almost completely empty. Not one single large bus, and only a handfull of mini vans. There were no queues for tickets and once inside there were barely 100 people. Nice. Except most of them were hawkers trying to sell us trashy souvenirs. More on them later.
Mohamed walked us around the Great Pyramid. It is enourmous. Mind-bogglingly huge. With approx 2 million blocks each weighing more than a tonne it is an incredible engineering feat. The tip of the pryamid has been lost/stolen so there is a metal rod showing its original height. Then it was off to see the two smaller pyramids and up to the "panoramic place" where we had some group shots and I got snapped "holding" a pyramid. A few of us went into the Solar Boat museum where Cheops' 43 meter cedar boat is housed. Amazing to see a 4600 (or more) year old boat so beautifully preserved. That experience was marred firstly from a guy outside who suckered us into giving him money and then from a "guide" inside the museum who we assumed was an employee but followed us around everywhere spruking trivia and then put his hand out to be paid for it at the end.
Then it was time to go into the great pyramid. Even though the crowd had swollen, there was no queue, and Joel (one of the new 5 to join the tour in Cairo) and I passed only one couple on the climb up. All I can say about the ascent is its very steep and for the first half you are doubled over in a tunnel about 1m x1m!!!! Guess who managed to scone themselves?!? Then you come out into a wider tunnel with a soaring vaulted ceiling and an even steeper climb. This is the original passage built by the ancients to get to the Kings chamber. The slabs above me are solid granite monoliths. I almost ran up the ramp from the adrenalin rush. We were greeted at the top of the stairs by another "guide". Crouching down on virtually hands and knees we entered the chamber. We were the ONLY people there.
The chamber is dimly lit, made of solid granite and easily 4 metres high. The solid granite sarcophagus of Cheops lies at the end of the chamber. The air is heavy in here. A single word bounces off the solid walls again and again and again - it has nowhere else to go. I manage a clandestine photo on the iphone (cameras are forbidden). It gives you an idea of how dark it is. A solemn place of rest.
Coming back out into the daylight, emerging from the Great Pyramid I am grinning from ear to ear. But there's no time to bask as the group are heading off down to the Sphinx. It has puzzled me all morning as it wasnt visible from anywhere we'd been, but is built into the limestone further down the hill.
Its here you realise Egypt is development gone mad. The city of Cairo is built right up to the gates!! And belive it or not, apparently the best view of the Spinx and Pyramids is on the second floor of Pizza Hut!!! It just seems so wrong.
Entry to the Sphinx is through the Valley Temple. Such a tease. Its not possible to get right up to it like you can the pyramids, but close enough on one side only. I thought it would be bigger, but it is still impressive nevertheless. The attention to detail is amazing, like the curling tail around the back leg exactly like a cat. The Spinx has undergone a lot of restoration so it looks like a bit of a patchwork quilt of many different limestones - part of me wishes it was left in its original state but I understand it is becoming so badly degraded that if they dont restore it now it could be lost.
Before I know it our time at Giza is over. It hardly seems real that I was here. One of the best experiences of my life.
After lunch we were off to the Cairo museum. Its not what you expect of a modern day museum. It seems to be stuck in the 1920's with sarcophagii and statues and stone reliefs lying around everywhere!! Too many relics to comprehend. Astonishing.
I head straight for King Tuts treasure. That is really well displayed as you walk past cabinets of "lesser" finds from the tomb annexes, building up to the larger and more precious pieces. The best is left for last in a special room. Surrounded by exquisite jewellery and the three gold covered sarcophagii, sits Tutankhamen's funary mask.
It is, without doubt, the most beautiful face I have ever looked upon. Again I was blessed that tourist numbers were low so I could stand as close as I wanted, staring into his eyes for as long as I pleased. Again, I could hardly believe it was real. Incredibly moving.
The rest of the museum almost paled into insignificance after that, although I stumbled upon the writing and manuscript section which gave me a little thrill to see some of the oldest papyrus writings and writing tools in the world.
Time was up - I didnt make it to the Royal Mummy's room, nor did I see the Rosetta stone which several of the others said they saw (I thought it was in the British Museum so didnt go looking for it). Thankfully we have some more time in Cairo at the end of the tour so I hope to get back there.
Besides, I just have to see that face, one more time......