Despite having been recommended to do a motorbike tour of the town, we decided to opt for a private 'perfume pagoda' tour instead, having had first hand experience of the interesting driving skills demonstrated by the locals! Having been promised an English speaking guide, lunch on board and a tour around all of the tombs and monuments up the river, we were a little apprehensive when we were picked up bright and early by a Vietnamese lady with a welcoming smile ...

We started the day, much as the previous one had ended, as we continued on a gruelling 18 hour bus ride, which took us through the winding traffic filled streets and then out into rural Vitetnam. Various near misses, stints on the wrong side of the road and continuous blaring of car horns later, we were dropped off in the seemingly rundown area of Hoi An, famed for its tailors and dressmakers. Our time here was to be shortlived however as a couple of confusing ho...