Four of us travelled on the train whose windows wouldn't open and toilet wouldn't flush from Mostar to the capital, Sarajevo. On arriving, some of us were a bit hazy due to the effects of "dehydration" and this combined with chatting to gypsy kids on the tram caused us to miss our stop and finding our hostel in the dark became a solid mission. Eventually, we prevailed! The next day a long lie was required after a busy few days in Mostar but eventually we got ou...

Our first experiences of Bosnia included a lone cow with a rope around it's neck wandering the railway tracks, a ticket inspector with no interest in inspecting tickets and a train which enjoyed stopping willy-nillily in the middle of nowhere. This all made us think that the place was going to be as dysfunctional as the stereotypes ingrained in our minds had led us to expect. I half expected to see Borat jump aboard! However, on arriving in Mostar all this was q...