Since leaving for China Soran and I haven't had much time together so visited an onsen in Hakone which is famous for the natural hot springs. It's way up in the mountains where you can see volcanic steam arising from the rocks, rugged mountains and beautiful lakes. The scenery was breathtaking. We had a lovely room of tatami matts and sliding doors and spent the whole time in these large public hot baths and rented a private bath in the night time.

It's a very weird scenario, they're single sex and you strip off before hand, shower publically and climb into the baths and that's how people relax with their friends and families chatting away in the baths. I couldn't even go in a public bath with my sister let alone my friends or parents. I was asked why would you feel more comfortable naked in front of strangers but you wouldn't like to strip off with your closets family and friends you're most comfortable with. I couldn't answer that but it's just the way it is and I'm sure unless you're a nudist or veteran hippy you'd feel the same.

The last week in Japan was spent celebrating Soran's 26th birthday, spending most of the time partying. I came home early from shopping for birthday presents to find Soran's family barbequing in the living room about 33C and so hot and sweating I joined in the feast with a glass of wine and had a whale of a time laughing at how hot and humid it was and again no one speaking English but everyone's still fine, I know I'm always fine in that situation but its nice that his family are too. It's also weird how much of an indoor culture it is here because of the lack of space, you would never have a BBQ inside in England even if it's raining!

The next night was spent at Frames, the café where Soran works, we stayed for drinks, too many shots, they brought presents and even a birthday cake, it was so lovely. It seems like he's finally getting used to working in Japan and making really nice friends with all the staff. I can even feel they're getting more open too. I was surprised the boss was fine with us staying and drinking at the place where they work, I don't even like doing that at Camino. I'm also giving everyone hugs when I meet them to get them to stop bowing to me! Its working, they're getting much more open which I'm really happy about. Although the moment I gave soran a kiss on the cheek there was an uproar of screams from the everyone of ohhhh kuwaiii( ohhh soooo cute) when I didn't even realise what happened.

We had dinner in an Okinawa restaurant for the birthday night and had a feast of fermented tofu and pigs intestines! I've now just got used to trying anything, so far I've eaten gizzard, hearts, livers, and intestines even pigs tongue! My dad would be proud, I remember when I was a kid he once gave me cow's glands and told me they were chicken nuggets! After we made our way to Hambunte, the dads bar in Meijiro. That was lovely having so many or Soran's friends in Tokyo eating; drinking and watching Japan play the world cup, blowing our blue vuvulelas. After hearing vuvuzelas round South Africa during football matches it was so strange seeing so many Japanese people with them in Tokyo. They really have spread across the world.

We woke up at made our way in the staggering heat to Disneyland which was just wonderful! I felt like I was 10 again and running round so happy, by 6pm Soran had had enough and I had to plonk him down at bar so he could have a beer to get through his hangover while I ran off and watched a parade. Doing 360degree spins on roller coasters and dropping 13 floors in the lift at the tower of terror wouldn't be the best way to spend the day recovering after your birthday night for most people!

By this point in Tokyo it feels like the heat is all getting too much, its hovering around 31C all the time and 90% humidity and in a small house without air conditioning it feels unbearable. So I jumped on my bike to look for wifi in a cool place. I found a hostel in the next ward and started researching the Australia trip which Soran needed me to do as he's working really hard. But before I know it I'm at the hostel drinking with a couple of Australian girls, beer after beer chatting away and met Soran not telling him I've just spent the day drinking and haven't got anything about the trip sorted, needless to say he wasn't happy about coming to the dinner I had arranged with the girls without giving him notice! He had a nice time though and they invited us to stay with them in Brisbane.

Friday was spent with the girls at Sofia whom I hadn't seen since China, they all came to have the last lunch with me and took me to an Italian ramen noodle joint, it was delicious. I wish I took Sarah! I met Soran at Frames and spent the night there with Iro having fun and drinking. Again getting drunk at Frames I'm so surprised were allowed to do this as when I first came a month a go we couldn't even stay for one drink after Soran's shift and now all of the managers seem to be getting relaxed and comfortable with this. So after this week of partying I had defiantly made up for the lost times of the previous week and was feeling burnt out.

I went with the parents to a local festival on Saturday to watch Shikishi, the brother's wife, perform a hoola Hawaiian dance which was beautiful. At night I met up with the Sofia girls for the last time and got taken to the Mori museum and Tif got Soran and I free tickets and Momo paid for us to go to the viewing deck which was just lovely. Seeing the bright lights of Tokyo on a Saturday night was a really nice way to end my trip.

I met Michi for lunch for the last time on Sunday in a cute little café which looked more like a French café on the Seine rather than in Tokyo and then met the family across town to have a lovely dinner of again, bits and bobs of weirdness. More raw livers, kidneys, raw squid inners, crab legs, lots of sashimi, bitter spiky cucumber type fruits. I got a couple little presents from everyone and a really lovely note from the Mom which Soran translated.

It was really sad and emotional to have spent so much time chilling out with the family. Not coming from a large family myself, it's been lovely having so many people around all the time, brothers, nephews, aunts, cousins all over the place, Soran's really lucky to have such a fun lovely family. I'm going to really miss them especially my Japanese mom and dad who I've defiantly spent more time with than my own parents over the years. Japans been good to me and I have a little feeling I'm going to be back. So lets say Sayonara Japan but hasta luego!