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At some point if you're travelling in South America you're going to end up taking a long bus trip as buses are the commonest form of long-distance travel.
Latin America used to have a good rail network, largely built by British engineers in the nineteenth century. However it has now all but disappeared save for a few suburban networks and some tourist trains, such as the one from Cusco to Machu Picchu. And for some reason cheap air travel hasn't taken off here in the same way it has in Europe or even South-east Asia where airlines such as Air Asia and Indigo provide bargain flights in many countries.
No, most people rely on the bus even for long journeys. From Asuncion, where we are now, buses go all over Paraguay but also to Bolivia, Brazil and Argentina. Many journeys are overnight with some lasting 24 hours or more.
Every sizeable town and city has a bus terminal, often on the outskirts of town, which seems to be busy at all times of the day and night. A wide variety of buses in all conditions come and go from battered old wrecks to brand new double deckers with fully reclining seats, air-conditioning, toilets and on-the-road movies. Some, such as 'Expreso Paraguay' that we used today, even advertise that they have stewardesses on board, in adverts reminiscent of 1970s airlines, and serve food during the journey.
Not that you need to rely on in-flight catering. Even the poshest long-distance bus will stop regularly to let people on board to sell not just drinks and food but other things as well. At the moment there seems to be a run in power packs for mobile phones and, it being Paraguay, paraphernalia for making and drinking matte (a type of herb tea that everyone here drinks all the time) is a must. But my favourite was the woman who was selling glittery socks. Essential for any bus journey.
And its a cheap way to travel as well. Our journey today from Encarnacion to Asuncion, covering 380km and lasting 6 hours on a top of the range bus with hostess and empanadas thrown in, cost us less than £10.
It all makes for a pleasant way to travel. Lying back, enjoying my empanada, watching the Paraguayan countryside roll by, wearing my glittery socks. What better way to see the world.
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