We arrived at Denpasar airport at 5pm, got through immigration and got our visas ($35 usd or 455,000 rupiah pp), thankfully there was an ATM at the airport. Got through to the arrivals hall and I have never seen soo many taxi drivers and signs with people's names. Thankfully we found ours easily enough, and off we went. He didn't speak very good English, but we got there in our communication. We arranged the pick up through the hotel, which cost 350,000 rupiah, think could have got for 250,000 if you had arranged yourself. But it was a comfort for us when arriving in a country we'd never been to. The drive was at sunset which was pretty but we were very distracted by the amount of scooters, everywhere. Maybe 3-4 people on them, carrying their shopping or driving one handed because they were smoking, swerving on abc out of the traffic, just crazy. After lots of bumpy tiny roads and about an hour later, we arrived at our hotel Sri bungalows. A copy of our passport and a welcome drink later, we are taken to our room. Although it was dark outside, we could see wee had a beautiful view of the pool, and although we were right on the Main Street, monkey forest road, you couldn't hear any of the hussle and bussel and we were surrounded by the rice paddies. With no idea were to go, we walked until we found somewhere that looked good and rule of thumb, had lots of people eating there. That was Ibu Rai, that has the cutest heart shaped latterns outside. We had no real idea of what the food would be like but we certainly weren't disappointed. I had chicken satay sticks (they have satay with everything here, happy days, my fav!!), with rice, crackers and a few other unnamable things that all tasted great. Also had our first of many bintang, Indonesian beer which was def drinkable- bonus. Headed back to our beautiful room, four poster bed, aircon, own bathroom, desk, wardrobe- we were living in luxury now compared to camping and hosteling in Australia.

After a great nights sleep, we awoke to see the pretty views in daylight. Beautiful pool, couldn't wait to jump in, ducks on the rice paddies, trees growing bananas and papaya and the biggest spider we had ever seen, on a web on the walk to breakfast. Breakfast was eggs and toast, a croissant, fruit and tea/coffee. Was very happy with that, and def filled us up. They were playing Christmas songs with a Balinese twist, gave us some christmas cheer. Today we explored Ubud. Used the lonely planet guide that recommended we check out Tutmak for coffee, which was ok, nice cinnamon scroll. Spent the afternoon at the monkey forest which was 30,000 rupiah in, bargain. Cheeky wee things, tried to steal Kennys water bottle. He was feeding them sweet potato and they were taking it outa his hand, jumping up on his arm and then on his head. Really pretty in there with the temples and the forest. Saw the families of monkeys, little babies so cute. This afternoon we learnt that we had arrived during wet season (up to this point I thought we were here in dry season) but when the heavens opened we knew for sure, drenched, it only lasted an hour, we could put up with that to be staying in a beautiful place. We asked the hotel staff for advice on where to eat cheap and he recommended Dian, which was 15,000 rupiah for a meal, like 75p for dinner. Crazy and it was really good. As we walked towards the dance performance, we noticed the amazing electrics, the main cables sparking, if only Jonny or Nick were here, they would sort them out. My answer was to run away from them, 2 mins later some lights went out. We made our way to the Spirit of Bali dance performance and we weren't disappointed. They were all dressed soo pretty, did the freakiest hand and facial expressions and played really nice music. I loved this one man, just smiled the whole way through like he was really having fun. The show lasted an hour and a half, one hour would have been enough tho. We stopped on the way back at Oops bar and had a couple of drinks and listened to the live music, was really nice end to the evening. Back to the room and hear the night time sounds of the geckos and frogs, relaxing :)

The next day, we went white water rafting with the Gahra company: booked through reception and they pick ed us up half an hour later at the hotel. Drove us about 15mins, just outside ubud but drive through a part we had never seen, always love a gok out the window. Got kitted up and took to the drop off spot, then hiked for about 1ins through the forest, downhill to the river. The poor Balinese men had o carry the rafts on their heads, then blow them up when we got down there. The rafting was really nice, through greenery, little villages along the side of the river, lots of dragon flies, just very pretty. There were a few bumpy parts where we had to hold on, and got stuck a few times, but mostly an easy ride. Kenny got some good videos on the GoPro. Headed back to the hotel after the complimentary lunch, for a wee afternoon nap and to figure out our next hotel in ubud. Found one nice one but Kenny wants to stay where we are so its up for debate. Sometimes you really just need your mummy and today was one of them. It was around dinner time but we decided on ice-cream, then coffee and cheesecake at Anomali kofi (the eat coffee in ages!), then had dinner, even tho by this stage we weren't hungry but knew we had to eat, and ended up having an amazing dinner at Nomad. Putting a frangipani behind our ear on entrance, the cutest table, a funny soup thing in a shot glass, Japanese goyza to start, and some me goerg and nai goerg for mains... Very nice.

Booked through bamba experience, our travel company to get us around SE Asia and in exchange for a Bangkok bike explorer (as we had one on each package) we done celebrity cycle tour of Ubud. Picked up at our hotel at 8.30
and drove to near the volcano Batur. The tour guides, both called Made, were soo lovely and very knowledgable. And we were very fortunate they took us as they were in the middle of a three day long celebration, that happens every half year (210days on their religious calendar) so it ended up a private tour just the two of us. On the way up to Batur, the first stop was Oka coffee tasting, yummy. Kennys new favourite past-time. We tried Luwak coffee (which is eaten by a muscat (I think), who have selected the best, ripest coffee berries, eaten them then pooed them out, which are then collected and to roast: actually really nice, not as strong as other Balinese coffees as they have already been digested once) coconut coffee (my favourite), ginseng coffee, pure bali coffee, rose tea, lemongrass tea, and ginger tea. He explained how they have some magic fruit trees (BBC: banana, bamboo and coconut) where they can use every part of the trees and nothing goes to waste, very clever and resourceful. Next stop was the restaurant overlooking Batur where we took some lovely photos and got a complimentary breakfast of banana pancake and coffee. Batur last erupted in 2010 but it was only smoke. We could still clearly see the results of when it last erupted with lava, leaving clear tracks of where it reached.
So we got on our bikes, made sure they fitted right, put the helmets on, got some complimentary water and off we went. The cycle was mostly downhill (thankfully) because although you never forget how to ride a bike, I still get a bit nervous for the first 10mins especially with all the holes in the road. Made 1 accompanied us on the bikes, leading the way, whilst Made 2 followed behind in the van I assume to make us feel safe and if we didn't wana cycle or the weather turned, we could hop in the van. It was a very peaceful and scenic cycle, through the beautiful rice paddies and little villages and every stop having Made tell us a little bit more about Balinese culture. Having watched 'what happens in Bali' on TV in Australia, we were aware of c*** fighting; the fight with a dagger on their ankle and there's only one survivor/winner. At least they eat the dead one, nothing goes to waste. But they keep them in cages for days before hand to get them angry, whereas we usually just saw them roaming the streets. We just happen to stumble upon a c*** fight, where locals had to pay in but they let us in for free. This one was because of the celebration being on. We saw them all betting and cheering. I didn't watch but Kenny did, a bit brutal for me. This one was legal and illegal, and the place was just surrounded by mopeds. It's nice to be the only tourists sometimes.
Half way through and the heavens opened and when they do in Bali, it really rains. But put our raincoats on, and carried on. We stopped for lunch at a lovely restaurant overlooking the rice paddies, and Made answered lots of the questions we had and told us lots more. We had been wondering why there were small coconut leaf baskets filled with fruit, flowers and an incense stick outside every shop and home, and a larger one off the ground which is prettier and has more in it; on the ground is the offering to the devil to keep him happy and above, the better offering, is to the gods. These offerings are done three times a day, before every meal. We saw the dogs and monkeys enjoys some of the ones on the ground. Most homes have their own rice terrace and a lot if their food comes from the trees around them, other crops they grow or the chickens they keep. Very little do they need to purchase, and when they do, it's at the markets, no big Tesco around here. They also only cook once a day, in the morning, and eat the same thing for breakfast lunch and dinner. It also isn't a sit down meal, just eat when u want, sitting on your honkers. Lastly we visited Made'a home, where three generations lived. They don't have a government pension in Bali so when they retire, the younger family look after them. We saw the layout of the home and how it is organised by hierarchy. Also the temple (each home has their own) and the meanings of the seven altars inside.
We really did have such a great day. Dropped back to our hotel at 3.30, showered and went for a massage. 30min full body massage was $4 AUD or £2. Crazy cheap. I had heard what they were doing to others in booth beside, so I knew it was coming. Hammering away at the back, like karate chopping. I was trying not to laugh as I pictured Kennys reaction to it in the booth beside me. I thought mine was quite good, Kenny thought the done more damage than good. So next stop was to get some 'Reflexology' done on my feet. Never had it done before, always fancied it so thought I'd get it done here. So we wondered around, found somewhere cheap and cheerful. Let's just saw it was nothing more than a foot rub and she didn't seem to have a clue which parts of the foot link to other body parts. But it got better. Kenny was sitting beside me whilst this was happening and I turn round to look at him and he has this strange look on his face. 'What's wrong?' I ask. 'Nothing', he says. Two minutes later I see what he had found... A rat running around the ceiling, eating from the offering! I near jumped out of my seat. And the lady said, 'o some of our customers don't like them.' Well obviously. Kenny saw about 4 of them after that. Needless to say we didn't take her recommendation to eat in the restaurant downstairs. Instead we headed to Tropical, and ate our meal at a tiny table, sat on the floor. Hard to get comfortable at first but we got there, and again had some beautiful food.

We didn't have plans for the next day so it turned into our walking day, easier said than done in the heat. We visited the water temple and Ubud place. Just walked around different wee streets that we hadn't been to before. We stopped for coffee and tapas at Havanas, quite nice and got us out of the torrential downpour. Next we tried to find me yoga class, walked for ages; the first one Taksu had no classes, the second Yoga Barn didn't have one for another 1.5hours so we headed back and chilled for the afternoon. In the evening, we went back to ibu rai, the place we ate the first night as it was our favourite. Saw the kids with their music and dress up for the celebration, and spent the evening chatting to a couple in their 70s who were on an 8 week Asia trip, go them!