Day Two of the Inca Trail. Enough to chill the bones of all but the hardiest of explorers. Well, maybe not, but this is going to be the tough day. The trail starts at the campsite at 3000m before rising to 4200m over the ominous sounding "Dead Woman's Pass" before dropping down to 3600m for the evening camp. All over the course of around 12 km.

Out of the campsite the trail first rises through a tranquil cloud-forest. It has a very tropical feel with streams trickling along the floor, and dense forest completely blocking the sun. The deep shade is welcome and makes the uphill trek much easier.

Out of the top of the cloud forest and the long assault on Dead Woman's Pass begins. The path ahead is defined by the dots of colour which marks the trekkers edging along the straw-grass covered mountain side. The air is very thin and it is a case of 'one step at a time,' 'digging deep,' and 'setting personal goals' and all that other stuff that people who go to the gym too much go on about.

A signpost in the near distance appears to be the top until I reach it and it turns out there's another 200 vertical metres to go. It probably says "Gotcha" in Spanish. I overtake some trekkers: mostly those who are barely moving and some chivalrous men-folk who are carrying theirs as well as their wives backpacks. Some are carrying enough to even raise eyebrows among the porters. As I finally get to the top after stopping about eight times to complete the final hundred steps the view is stunning. There is a vista over both the previous and the next valley with snow covered peaks poking through the cloud above rainforest below.

Getting down is much easier as I let my backpack push me down the mountain, only watching my feet to avoid the stones with "twisted ankle" written all over them. We have a whole afternoon to rest after reaching camp at Pacamayo and I'm certainly in need of it. The effects of too much exercise, altitude and sun leave me with a headache that comes on if I do pretty much anything except for lie down, and we're not even halfway yet.