Phnom Penh is a surprisingly nice and atmospheric city....yes its dirty, smelly and hot... but the people here have been lovely and we've enjoyed our stay (though the large rat in the kitchen where we are staying was a shock). Kim has desperately been trying to track down the Cambodian delicacies of deep fried tarantulas and roasted crickets but to no avail...though Mark did almost tread on a crab who had escaped from its basket and was making a desperate bid for...

After the poverty we saw en route to Siem Reap we were massively surprised by the town itself - luxurious hotels, stylish bars and tasteful restaurants lined the streets! We hired a great tuk-tuk driver (Dabid or Dave as Mark called him) for 3 days to take us around the temples. The temples didn't disappoint... Ta Prohm (the Tomb Raider temple with overgrown roots) was stunning and Kim was convined she was Lara Croft for a while there! Watching sunrise at Angko...

We were slightly concerned about heading into Cambodia. Kim had lost our bible (Lonely Planet) in the changing room of Tesco in Bangkok(!) and various internet sites had described the border crossing as sheer hell - bad roads, corrupt border officials and taxi mafia who controlled transportation and raised the prices sky high.... Our journey started haggling with a taxi driver to take us to the bus station...he wanted to charge the exorbitant price of 4 pounds -...