We woke up in our little cabin on the hillside. We were out of provisions so we drove the bumpy road down into town and bought our first freshly baked bread of the holiday, along with butter, milk and the only cheese they had - processed squares.

The lady who owns the cabin had provided some homemade marmalade and a fruit drink which we have not tried yet.

When you're not busy, time seems to disappear and it was noon before we set out to Parque Nacional Volcan Tenorio.

This area of Costa Rica was very badly hit by Hurricane Otto in 2016 and Hurricane Nate this year. There was flooding that washed away bridges and flooded some properties. In the National Park you could still see the damage done to the trees and the roads and bridges were still being rebuilt.

Vn Tenorio is in fact a complex of three volcanoes, Tenorio 1, Tenorio 2 and Montezuma. Like many Costa Rican volcanoes, access is limited and you can not climb to the top. We did a 6-7 kilometer trail which takes you to the Rio Celeste - a local river reknown for its blue colour. There was a beautiful blue waterfall, a blue lagoon where "borbollones" were bubbling up - sulphur bubbles which made the river warm. At the end of the trail there was the confluence of two rivers. Where they met, their chemical interaction created the optical illusion of the blue water.

The guidebooks had warned us that the route was steep and muddy - they didn't lie. And it was hot - particularly climbing the 253 steps back from the waterfall.

Back in Bisagua, we got back to our cabin to find the gate had been locked and our key didn't work. We went back down the bumpy road - now dark - to the vets where Marya, the owner, works. It was shut but a man in an adjacent house saw us and said he had a key. He headed uphill on his quad and opened the gate. We then realised Joan had lost a credit card. We searched the house and car. Joan recalled she had used it to buy bread in the morning. So back down the bumpy road, avoiding lightless cyclists, barking dogs and trucks. In the store, the card was there. What a relief!!

We were lucky. It hadn't rained all day.