LIFE IN LILONGWE We think Lilongwe is one of Africa's most pleasant capital cities. As John said, it had a 'touch of Winchester' about it. We camped at the rather smart Gold Club where we had eight security guards protecting Biggles...these flying golf balls can be dangerous. Rather than a pressing security threat in Lilongwe this seemed to be due to over-staffing (something we are accustomed to at campsites in Africa). The following morning we were woken up early by a blaring car radio and the sound of water a few feet from our tent. Bang next to our car (the only one in the large camping area) was a man cleaning one of the smart golf club's cars. We couldn't understand why he had chosen to clean it so close to us but told this is the spot where he always cleans it - He had just not registered that since we were paying to camp there we might be slightly upset at being woken up by a carwash at 5am! This was something we have experienced throughout Africa - privacy and personal space is not a concept that is readily understood on the continent. Once again we got to know the "car parts" area of another African city. We bought a new battery and traded in our old burnt out one to a man who seemed very happy with the prospect of making a radio with it. At the very moment we were ready to move on the heavens opened and we were in the middle of a torrential downpour, possibly the heaviest rain we have ever seen. Chaos ensued: the roads quickly became rivers, the traffic came to a standstill, the electricity cut due to lightening strikes, and all the shops suddenly closed. As with all African cities, most stock is sold on the pavements or in shacks at the side of the road - is was tragic to see people struggle to rescue their wares as the water soaked and sometimes washed away their stock. It was a storm unlike any other we have experienced and reminded us that Africa is a continent of extremes. The massive weather changes along with the overwhelming poverty makes day to day living precarious. In spite of this, looking around at all the Malawians being pounded by the rain, thinking about the terrible AIDS and TB statistics in the country and the imminent food shortages in the region, most of the people we saw were still smiling. Although a shock for us they seemed to be accustomed to such extremes. Their outlook is one of natural determination and resilience. In spite of the rain the 'warm heart of Africa' beat strong that day in Lilongwe as its people prepared to return to the streets once the storm cleared to start all over again. It was for this reason we liked Malawi. It wasn't for the party-going scenes of the beaches, the turquoise tropical fish-filled waters of the lake, the lush green, forested hillsides and plateaus. Instead it was for the people with their ridiculous names and oxymoronic shop signs, making difficulty more bearable and disappointments more dignified. All that was missing was an umbrella....but what's the worry about getting wet anyway.