The plan today is to get to Nungwi which is a beach town nearly at the most Northern tip of Zanzibar island. Michael, Julie, Jess and I decided to do a spice tour on our way. We got collected at 8am and went around Stonetown to see and learn about the history of Stonetown itself.

Zanibar was the main slave market for East Africa selling to the Middle East in the 1800s. We went to the Anglican Church that has been built over the site of the Slave Market in Stonetown. Our guide estimates that there were 10 million people sold through that market in the years it operated. We also went to some slave chambers which were no bigger than a normal size bedroom, they were slightly underground with 3 slit windows at one end. There was a corridor going three quarters way into the room and then all around it the floor was at about mid thigh height. The room was built to hold 75 slaves and they would use the sunken 'corridor' section as a toilet. At high tide the corridor and possibly above would flood with sea water. The room now has a door cut out, however in times of use the entrance was a hole from above that slaves would drop down into and then crawl sideways into the room. We were 4 in the room and considering the added ventilation from the now installed door and the absence of sewage we found it hard to breathe in that room. Slaves were put into chambers like these for up to 2 days without water or food to test their health and strength. If they survived they were then sold to the highest bidder.

After Stonetown we went to the Government spice farm where we got to see lots and lots of spice and fruit all growing naturally and try loads of different things. I finally got to try the Jack fruit which can grow up to 20kg in size. It tasted like a mixture of banana and pineapple and is not a fruit I am going to seek out on a regular basis. I now know that cinnamon sticks are from the cinnamon trees bark having been dried and it naturally rolls and I have worn some lipstick tree lipstick. We got to see a local climb to the top of a coconut tree and we were also made a palm leaf crown, ring, bracelet and handbag - all high fashion items.

We got to the beach at about 3pm and discovered to our delight that our hotel is right on the beach. To our slight horror we also learnt that we have a ceiling fan with no air con and it is hot and humid here. But it was all made somewhat ok when we learnt that the twin rooms have 2 double beds - can not wait to lay spread eagled in bed with no sleeping bag or 50cm roll mat to constrain my movements!

Stomach rather upset this afternoon but taking the approach that this can only be a good thing in terms of keeping my weight under control. Interesting leg wax experience which I will relay when I see you in person one day - just remind me about having my legs waxed with a butter knife and random white guy laying on the massage bed next to me waiting for his massage.

Cocktails on the beach tonight in preparation for Christmas. Rory and Shelley also got engaged tonight and we are all so happy for them. Rory arranged a whole day of 'date stuff' and found the perfect moment to pop the question on a sunset cruise they took. Shelley was completely surprised but can't keep the massive grin off her face. Rory has been trying to ring Shelley's day for permission, but African internet reliability is not great and it just has not worked out. He did end up basically yelling at her dad one night saying 'I want to propose to Shelley' to which her dad responded 'You want to propose to do what next week?' After 4 failed calls over a 2 week period Rory decided not to let the moment pass and press on ahead and explain the situation later.