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Well it was all ok in the end and the embassy decided that despite us having an American and a Danish (some rule that they are not allowed in) is our midst they would give us our visa's. So we boarded our 36 hour ferry ride to Sudan. We got on the ferry at 10.30am in the morning and sat all day in the searing heat until we set sail at 5.45pm. Watching the ferry get loaded was a show in itself. Our guide paid a little extra and we go the space on the front of the ferry in front of the cabin all to ourselves, but there was limited shade and it was at least 40` for most of the day. We set about building a sarong sail to hide under. We got served lunch of roast chicken, rice, bread and some unidentified vegetable, but overall it was tasty enough. Very strange how it can take 7 hours to load a boat. There were at least 350 passengers and only 4 toilets. Ruth had prepared us for the worst and we were happy that it was much better than we were prepared for. I was lucky that each time I went to the toilet it was soon after the cleaner so I was ok - others were not so lucky. I did take my shewee to the toilet just in case (if you are not sure what that is google it for an idea). I thought it might be useful just in case it was all too gross. I did have a firm chat with my body and luckily it listened and I put number 2's on hold for at least the ferry journey :)
We arrived in Sudan at Wadi Halfa to meet our truck at about midday the following day. I have never been so happy to see the truck where we can now store our luggage and not have to move it all again until the end of the trip. We bought water to drink for the next 4 days of desert driving and we were off. Tonight we met our tents for the first time and started our desert camping experience.
Driving through the desert meant that the back of the truck was in a constant sand storm. We were relatively cool despite it being about 40` outside as the wind keep us refreshed, but if you stood in the sun directly it was too hot! Being in Sudan we also had to cover up anytime we saw any locals. Luckily I bought some long sleeve light tops in Egypt for this purpose. Desert camping was fun and we all got to grips with putting our tents up and down and for now the insects are not too bad so Laura (my tent buddy) and I have been sleeping with our door open as it is hot in the tents.
Saw the pyramids of Sudan just before we got to Khartoum, the capital of Sudan and we were the only tourists there. As we drove off the main roads truck drivers honked their horns and raised their hands as if to say 'where are you going??' As we approached the pyramids the children with small carvings to sell actually jumped for joy and rushed out to their make-shift stalls to sell us their wares. It was amazing having the whole site to ourselves. We were however surprised by the camels and riders who appeared from no-where to sell us camel rides. A few in the group had some rides and we all bought some rather terrible carvings for a pound or so each - need to support the local economy after all and we are not sure when they are going to see their next bus/truck of tourists.
Had a wash tonight in the dunes and it was amazing! Am definitely going to devote some water to bathing in future bush camps as it is amazing how half a litre can really make you feel a million dollars. Washing hair was out of the question, but with the dust we all have hats and scarves tied on our heads anyway so hair styling is not really a problem.
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