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A long day of driving and a flat tyre (2nd for the trip so far) saw us arrive in Lalibela - the Jerusalem of Ethiopia. We got to upgrade and stay in a hotel with a bed and ensuite bathroom. We felt very spoilt indeed. We were staying Ethiopian four star equivalent and it was only 10USD per night. I think at this point a bed was just what I needed and I felt so much more refreshed, clean and willing to set up my tent again following 2 glorious nights sleep and about 4 showers - just cause I could!
Spent the day in Lalibela exploring the churches which it is famous for and only took 22 years to build/carve. UNESCO listed the churches as world heritage sites in the 1970's and the Italians got involved and built some protective structures over them to assist with the protection and ongoing restoration projects. There were about 10 churches we visited over the course of the day. Each church has been carved from a single piece of rock which makes them so unique as they are full size buildings. They carved them from the top down and made them with pillars and rooms and multiple levels. They removed all of the debris through the windows and doors that they carved. The churches are still in use today which also adds to their uniqueness. Our guide used to play as a child in the churches and all of them are linked by tunnels that are carved in the rock. We got to go through one such tunnel which was really exciting. We were not allowed any lights and had to have our right hand on the wall and our left hand on the roof of the tunnel. Of course not being particularly tall my left hand did break contact with the roof quite regularly however the right hand enabled me to be able to continue forward without incidence. It was all rather exciting and pitch black. Our guide informed us that the tunnels is how the priests used to transport the holy communion from the church bakery to the sanctuary without the lay people being able to see it. He said that they knew the way and would not use light which I guess showed their dedication to the church, but I think that perhaps they just should have gotten out more. When we emerged from the tunnel we apparently entered through the gates of heaven - all seemed rather easy to get into heaven.
To give you an idea, the picture above is the roof of St George's church. The top is flush with the ground the church is then sunk into the ground. King Lalibela was a priest, king and architect. Lalibela means honey eater and the valley was rich with honey production.
Some of the group got lead by a group of teenagers who hung around outside our hotel in the hope that we would sponsor them to a restaurant run by a Scottish lady. We ate dinner there one night and had our first dinner in Ethiopia where we were all served at once within an hour from ordering. Our usual experience is that we order and then over the course of at least 2 hours the meals are delivered to the table in dribs and drabs and it can be up to 1.5 hours between the first and last meal arriving. Means that you regularly eat whilst everyone else watches and then go hungry whilst waiting for the last meal to arrive or you have lost your appetite if you have to wait to be the last served - but you must remember - this is Africa.
I have been enjoying the Injera which is a pancake served with various meats or vegetable dishes that you use the Injera (pancake made from Teff) to eat it with. If you look up Teff on Wikipedia you will understand more about the pancakes and what I am speaking about. I thought that Teff was an Ethiopian word and was looking for the English word, but it turns our that the grain is just called Teff. Teff must be harvested by hand as the seeds are so small and would be lost if a machine is used. I do hope that Dad is appreciating my interest in the farming. The Ethiopian's eyes bulge in shock when I mention that my dad is a farmer and the size of his farm. I reassure them that it is all tractors on his farm and not done through donkey/bullock power!
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