Waking before dawn is not something I'd normally enjoy doing. It reminds me of cold, dark, winter mornings, normally on a Monday and normally followed by 8 hours in the office. But this wasn't a normal morning. Angkor Wat, the temple of Siem Reap, the icon of the nation and commonly known as the 'eighth wonder of the world', rose from the darkness. Black turned to orange. Orange turned to blue. Even though millions flock here every year, you feel, if only for a...

Cambodia. A country famous for its historic temples, infamous for the Pol Pot regime, and is the only country in the world to feature a building on its flag. Their population may still be recovering from the Khmer Rogue period (the four years between 1975-1979 which cost 2 million lives, one third of the population), but the people's kindness and hospitality lives on. After reading horror stories about bus drivers leaving passengers at the Vietnamese-Cambodian ...