Biking the 'local bike highway', Moon Hill and massage - 1 December 2011

Today had the best day of my travels so far. After yesterday's disappointing Li River cruise (150yuan for a 30min boat ride), the group made a consensus to hire our own bikes and guide rather than participate in the tour-organised biking, bamboo rafting and lunch (250yuan). We managed to hire a bike, get access to Moon Hill and hire a local bike tour guide for 55yuan (about 12 NZD) each - bargain!

Heading out at 9am, our group rode about 2 hours along the 'local bike highway' to Moon Hill. This allowed us to explore the Guangxi countryside, while avoiding the car traffic. The scenery was amazing - beautiful vegetable gardens and simple houses set amongst random karst mountains. After one of the group got a flat tyre, we walked for five minutes..

[cue Angus, the scotsman just walked into the room and wanted me to tell you all about his merry kilt-wearing state at dinner last night.. got to keep the scots happy i guess ;) - let's just say he didn't make it on the bike ride today]

..to a local farmhouse (that used to be a restaurant) while we waited for someone to arrive with a new inner tube. A local, who spoke exceptional English, was squatting at his front door with his puppy having a chat to us. He explained that he used to work for the owner of the restaurant, but the restaurant was no more, so now he rents his house and garden off his former boss and sells the fruit and veges that he grows. He cut up the local fruit, Pomelo, for us to try. It was similar to a Grapefruit, but not that nice so none of us wanted to buy. Instead a few of us chipped in a yuan for letting us try the pomelo. I gave an extra yuan (for his 12-year old son who was at the local school, working hard to get an education :)). Tyre fixed, we carried onto Moon Hill. This is a karst mountain with a large hole in the middle and resembles a full moon, thus the name. 900 steps later, we were at the top. Little did I know that three touts had followed us up the hill with overpriced drinks and postcards for sale. I had my water with me so was in no need of a drink and I think postcards are are waste of qian so I didn't buy when they approached. A couple of us were resting, when a tout approached us giving us the guilt trip "I walked all the way up here, you have got to buy a drink or postcard!". I didn't give in - hardworking farmers I will gladly slip an extra yuan too, pesky touts that follow you up a hill I think not..

By that stage, we were shivering and ready for some hot showers! Even thermoplus, icebreaker and gloves weren't keeping me warm enough. Icy blast was coming through south china so the temperature was about 7 degrees (apparently it is snowing in Beijing already!). We decided to take the short trip back on the main road and head back for hot showers. After, half the group headed to Lily Lu - local naturopath - for 1h full body massages (only 90yuan - about 15NZD). Almost dinner time now, and we are headed to a place with wonton soup and other Hong Kong style food. Then an early night, as we will be up for a 7am tai chi class and 8am kung fu class, then on the bus at 10am to catch the 19h overnight train from Guilin to Chongqing.

Missing you all - feel a bit detached with no Facebook in China so please flick me an email :)