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We had a private transfer arranged to take us from the Chiang Rai hotel to Chiang Mai - something like a 3 hour trip. It made sense to do it at our leisure and to link up chucking out time in Chiang Rai with checking in time in Chiang Mai. It was fab to have a sleep in (now defined as getting up any time after the sun has risen). Also a leisurely breakfast. Our driver was early and spoke English well, so we really felt like we’d had a successful day already when we left at 11.30 am.
First and most important stop - the money changing office. We can only assume that myriad crimes generally occur in the place as we were changing only US$40 - but the passport had to be photocopied, the phone number provided etc. Hang on... maybe they’re counterfeiting passports and the money changing is just their side-hustle.
Second stop was the Blue Temple. Absolutely stunning. No messing about, flat out BLUE - does what it says on the tin so to speak. Just when we were pretty much templed-out. We had done the briefest of research on our two scheduled stops and our reading up on the White Temple (pictured) was done in the back of the mini-van. The pictures looked amazing and it was interesting to know it’s more about Thai modern art than being a temple. It took hundreds of artists years to create and had some funny features - like the golden temple complex that is actually a toilet block. Despite having seen the pictures, we were both still blown away by the sheer, well, whiteness of the White Temple - we had no idea it would be inlaid with mosaic mirrors. It was blindingly splendid. We can only imagine a Thai time traveller arriving in 2019 would think he’d taken a wrong turn at Albuquerque and ended up in heaven.
With our eyesight (just barely) intact, we made it out via the gift shop and found our man in a van to continue the long drive to Chiang Mai. With road works through the national park and peak hour traffic as we approached the city, the 3 hour drive was closer to 4 and felt like 6 - but likely just a function of the long day and drive yesterday.
We were greeted at our Chiang Mai hotel (De Nara) with many smiling faces and a beautifully presented room with the customary anniversary swans and even a fresh red rose. We were highly disposed to liking the room from the very beginning - due to the spa bath and the quiet position away from the street. We knew it would still be eyemask/ear plugs and sleeping pill territory as we’re still in Asia - but it was a start.
By the time we tested the spa and put on fresh clothes, it was coming up to 6 pm. We’d had a big breakfast to tide us over the day and were cetainly ready for dinner. We booked the Japanese/Sushi Buffet - their Tuesday night special - at the Shangri-La Hotel (AKA ‘Not Our Hotel’ in Chiang Mai). It’s not that we hunt out five star hotel buffets in the normal course of events, but recently there was a promotion of 250 Golden Circle miles if you joined the Shangri-La programme and downloaded the app... which can be redeemed instantly in Shang restaurants and bars at a rate of 10 points = US$1. Therefore 5 minutes work netted us US$25 each. Nice work if you can get it. We did it for both of us so now will be enjoying sushi and sake for only an additional US$10 - an absolute bargain in any currency. There are ways and means to enjoy a champagne lifestyle on a beer budget and that’s just our latest example.
What can we say. We wish the Shangri-La WAS our hotel in Chiang Mai. The lobby! The orchids! The smiling staff! We had hoped to have the included sake with our buffet but it was a national holiday to Buddha and the country was essentially dry for 24 hours. Sigh... they included a lychee juice instead. Just wasn’t quite the same - but left room for more sushi, gyoza, sashimi, hand made chocolates etc. We’d taken a Grab to get there and once more were impressed with the cleanliness of Thailand - streets in good order, no liquefying piles of rubbish - all very swish. Post-buffet we wandered home for 20 minutes or so, passing through the old walls of Chiang Mai and over the bridges into the old town.
It being Thailand and all, we thought a spot of jewellery shopping might be in order, so checked out a couple of places and explored Chinatown. Not surprisingly, the heat of the day was extreme and we were very lucky to trip over The Funky Monkey on our way home - just around the corner from the hotel. Unlike the jewellers (which seem to have gone downhill), this place was divine! Small, hole in the wall, amazing smoothies - included the eponymous Funky Monkey (milk, coffee, banana and ice - blended into submission). Banana, Strawberry and Banana, Mango, and of course, the Chocolate Chimp - cocoa, milk, banana, ice. They even had food! And wifi! and less than 5 minutes back to air conditioned comfort. It was essentially our living room in Chiang Mai.
We had 2 full days in Chiang Mai and we forced ourselves out on Day 2 to see some temples. Yay temples. Didn’t get very far I’m afraid - the Blue Temple and White Temple were brilliant - but only because they were different. The wats of Chiang Mai were all just a bit same-same to our jaded eyes. We’ve heard so many people rave about this place over the years, but we’re afraid it may have gone off the boil a touch. It’s another spot where you arrive and seemingly, by the amount of tour shops, immediately go elsewhere - fake elephant sanctuary, overpriced tiger zoo, temple on a hill, hill tribe on a hill etc. Ah well - Manana we’re off to Mandalay and then, then, in short order, hot air ballooning in Bagan. Let the magic commence.
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