Yesterday I went into town because I haven't actually done that yet. Finished with town in less than ten minutes. There's not much there and what there was appeared to be half-closed. I found myself at the river again - even prettier now because it's frozen. Or at least, it's frozen down by the barbecue hut and it's semi frozen further up - great big sheets of ice flowing down the river and crashing into others and it was all very wintery and very dramatic and I ...

Since Rovaniemi city centre isn't the most beautiful place in Lapland, I decided to head for the river. On a clear bright day - bright in an Arctic way with a blindingly bright but low sun - it was very pretty, everything frosty, the river half frozen. I followed the river and came to a barbecue hut - just a little wooden shelter with wood stacked under the benches and a fire pit outside, with a view between the trees over the river. I would love to come there at...

First impressions of Rovaniemi by daylight: good. Or at least, this end. There are little clumps of trees around the roads and between the houses, Lapland-style mini forests of pine and birch and it all feels lovely. A sprinkling of sparkly ice is very pretty. Breakfast of bread and rolls and some kind of slightly odd-tasting fruit squash that I can't identify and cold chocolate (don't put sugar cubes in it, however cute sugar cubes are, they just don't dissolve...

The moral of today's story is this: if you have a bad feeling about something, listen to it. I got up nice and early, packed and walked to the station via the seafront and the main shopping street. Bought a couple of bottles of drink, looked at the departure board and saw my train at Track 11. I went to Track 11. Now, first of all there was no information on the board at the head of Track 11. But there was a train there. There was no information on the signs b...

Helsinki is a jewel. I think I'd forgotten that. I drove up to Gatwick last night with no problems other than the realisation that my snow boots are much heavier than they look and surprisingly tiring to drive in. Got safely to my pod. This morning I checked in using the self-service - checking in at a screen is normal, self-service bag drop - and getting to shoot my own bag with a laser gun! - is still very much a novelty, as was breakfast overlooking... well,...