Part 72: Nha Trang....
I tried my very best to get comfortable on the bus, but quickly realised that no matter how much I moved and wriggled, this was as good as it was going to get for me. Plus the same incessant beeping as we over-took scores of chugging mopeds started to make my head spin already! Luckily we would be stopping in Hoi An, which conveniently enough, is only 40km away from Da Nang for a few hours to pick up more passengers - meaning we would get a good opportunity to walk around the resort and stretch our legs. The only positives so far were the beautiful coastal roads en route, and the money we would be saving not requiring overnight accommodations, or at least thats what I kept telling myself.
But these wonderful views really do go some way to making you feel better though - which was at least something.
The first hour passed very quickly, and right before I lost the feeling in my legs again, the bus pulled up in Hoi An.
We were in the middle of nowhere in this pot hole ridden muddy car park, and there was major confusion whilst the driver, and conductor instructed everyone to get off the bus with all their luggage, and then re-register to get back on it at a nearby tour office for some reason, which made absolutely no sense at all.
Like us, all our fellow passengers wondered what was going on, although we kind of eventually grasped that this wasn't an ambush, and what they were trying to say. So we all walked to the small tour office, that was actually just a table and chair, where we dumped our heavy back packs off.
The main strip of Hoi An looked typically like the regular backpackers destination with the usual spread of cafes, bars, souvenir shops etc, and scores of tourists were wandering the streets. At this point neither me nor Jack were feeling to disappointed that we would be spending only a short time here and didn't think we would be missing out too much.
After a walk up and down the resort strip, we found a small restaurant to eat and relax for a few hours before the long journey to Nha Trang; there we ordered some comforting Pho chicken noodle soup, and I noticed a shy young boy no more than 7 or 8 years old who was watching me, taking a particular interest in my phone, so I prompted him over and showed him some of the games and apps. His face lit up as we both took turns playing with the phone which he absolutely loved. Obviously we weren't able to converse, instead sharing the universal language of 'Starwars Lego'.
His father anxiously looked on, not surprisingly calling him back rather sternly, with a flick of his head! Though I couldn't blame him in the least, and probably would have done exactly the same were he my son, although the young boy didn't seem to impressed about it.
Back at the tour office a few hours later, a large gathering of passengers congregated, and there was even more confusion between everyone who began quizzing the conductors about which bus to get.
I briefly hoped we would be on one of the newer busses, but once more there was no such luck, so sadly me and Jack made our way back onto the exact same one as before.
However this time, it was even more uncomfortable, with even less space on board. Both isles where now full of dozens of bags and packages too.
And if it wasn't already hot enough on board, several Vietnamese passengers taped up the air con vents; even the one directly above my head!! turning the bus into an oven. This was due to a recent outbreak of bird flu and would also explain why most of the people on the bus wore masks too. As much as I was tempted to knock myself out with valium to sleep through the journey, I didn't want to waste my tablets so decided to brave it out by listening to my music and blog writing instead.
A few gruelling hours, later the inevitable happened and I needed the bathroom, even though I tried my absolute best to hold it in; it was no use. I rather reluctantly, and with great difficulty made my way forward to the tiny booth.
There was barely enough room to move down the isles, let alone in the claustrophobic toilet booth - plus both my legs had fallen asleep, and with the driver slaloming left and right like his life depended on it thus making it practically impossible to hold still, and for want of a better expression; aim! plus the choking smell and damp floor was not in the least bit pleasant either. But despite all the hurdles, I managed to do the deed, then make it back to my seat in one piece with no splashes!
The whole journey really dragged, and nothing I seemed to do to wind down or distract myself, did much good, nor did I mange to sleep a single wink on the ironically named 'sleeper bus'.
Then after what seemed like an absolute eternity (more than 11 hours) we approached the coastal city of Nha Trang.
My mood was lifted ever so slightly as we drove down the edge of the sea, but in truth I was absolutely exhausted after yet another mammoth journey - this one had really taken it out of me.
In total it must have been close to 38 hours to reach this point by road all in all from Hanoi to here, and with that blasted horn constantly going off, I wasn't sure if I could actually manage anymore time on a bus. It was still 11 hours or so to Ho Chi Minh city. Still I would worry about that another time and do my best to enjoy what ever delights the beach town of Nha Trang had to offer for a few days; relaxing was very much on the agenda now.
It was 6am in the morning and I was desperate for a comfortable bed, especially since having no sleep at all on the bus. And when me and Jack were mobbed by accommodation reps, and taxi drivers the very second we stepped off the bus, we were not exactly in the most patient of moods so we cut right through them.
Barely mustering up enough energy between us, we walked to a hostel called 'the mozjo inn' that I previously discovered on line, receiving rave reviews for the warm welcome it gave to arriving guests.
This wasn't the easiest place to find and it was tucked away in an alley- way directly behind the main street, but the moment we stepped through the door, and just as the online reviews suggested; we were greeted by two of the most sincere and friendliest Vietnamese girls ever - one named Snow, and the other Tween. Both beaming and smiling instantly lifting our spirits.
Other back packers arrived, all looking equally tired and they too were greeted in the same bubbly warm manner.
Some couldn't quite get their heads around how nice these two 'Disney' like girls were, but appreciated it none the less. The hostel had instant quirky appeal, and much like the last one in Da Nang, a great deal of thought seemingly went into it.
The two cheerful girls were doing their utmost to make everyone feel at home, trying hard to make sure our rooms were ready so we could rest.
In the meantime I looked up nearby places of interest on the walls, that were littered with information for travellers, suddenly remembering my good friend Martin from Hollands advice about an 'easy rider' motor bike tour.
He had been on one a few weeks earlier on his way up to Hanoi and recommended it to me and Jack. Within moments of mentioning it to Snow, she had arranged for one of the guides to meet us in the hostel reception to discuss it in more detail, and it was here where we met the shy unassuming Corina from Switzerland, sitting quietly on one of the sofas to my left.
At this point me and Jack were discussing heading to the sand dunes of Mui Ne on the South east coast, but get there via any means necessary, other than a bus. And on over hearing this, Corina quietly asked in her softly spoken voice if she could join us, to which me and Jack looked at each other and said 'sure'
And that was it, just like that we had arranged a tour, even before we formally introduced ourselves - but that's how it was sometimes with travelling.
We would all go in few days but certainly not before we recovered from all the long bus journeys.
Within minutes and after a proper introduction - myself, Jack and Corina headed to the beach; a short walk away whilst the room was being prepped, and on the way we discovered Nha Trang was very popular with Russian tourists. Most of the infrastructure here is reared towards them.
But despite its obvious commercialism Nha Trang makes an excellent first impression, warm ocean air, shining sun, and a friendly tourist vibe. We were all now ready for a vacation from back packing, beach life here we come......