Part 82: Sunsets and barbecue's...
Ao Nang was not really the best place to head to if you’re looking for a mad nightlife scene - it had much more of a mellow vibe, not overpowering neon lit madness like Koh Samui or Phuket - and like us, if you didn't mind that, then this is exactly the right place for you.
It had a good blend of families, with a small scattering of children, couples and non rowdy backpackers - it was also low season meaning even fewer tourists. Our hotel complex was just a few minutes walk from the heart of the main nightlife area located just off the beachfront road that was dominated by shops and restaurants, down a small alleyway that opens up into an esplanade of lively bars. This is referred to as 'Center Point’ cleverly keeping any potential rowdiness off the main sea front area as to not disrupt the ambience. If you're looking for a quiet drink with perhaps a little acoustic live music in the background then along the strip is where you should stay. And that's why I liked Ao Nang so much.
But tonight we were all in the mood for a bit of a party and Jack, who followed us down from Bangkok, joined me and the girls for the night, meaning that it would once more be fun - he was always great for a few beers and a good laugh.
So we all readied for a night out on the town, and stopped just outside our hotel for some deliciously made street food which worked out far cheaper than the restaurants, before taking the relatively short walk to the Center Point.
Once there, we were met by a cluster of glamorously dressed lady boys, eager for group selfies with tourists and passers by. We huddled together for a picture with all of them - feeling more than a few pinches and wandering hands on my backside. As ever Jack loved to flirt with them, and had several lipstick marks on his cheeks where they planted huge kisses all over his face. Although we really should have known better than to get sucked into this, knowing full well that they would be asking for money, which of course they did. But we captured some great shots nonetheless. Inside the bars we took advantage of happy hour and ordered several buckets which usually only ends up one way; very messy!
Then after several drinking games and even more bars, including a bizarre venue run by lady boy Norwich city fans, which Jack was understandably thrilled about - not only because he was now developing a worrying soft spot for lady boys, but also being the Norwich football fanatic that he was, and after explaining to us that he could now 'die happy' - we ended up playing drunken Jenga and dancing to cheesy music here, drinking yet more buckets, before finally walking home in the absolute torrential rain, which ended up being one of the highlights of the night - we got absolutely soaking wet and none of us even cared, whilst at the same time probably turning into those annoying drunken backpackers I so often moan about in my blog!
The rain was relentless so we had no choice but to flag down a tuk tuk for the last stretch home to the hotel.
We were all perhaps a little reckless by drinking so many buckets with unfiltered tap water ice, and only time would tell if we were likely to suffer the consequences over the next few days or not - but soon as we got home we all crashed out.
The following day we nursed our hangovers beside the pool at the hotel complex less than 30 seconds walk from the room for most of the afternoon - it was perfect.
Anna treated her self to a full on pampering massage session right by the pool side, whilst me and Lindsay spoke about our favourite subject of love, life, and travel; yet again.
I specifically remembered not moving for most of that day and not feeling the need to do anything in particular.
Since I was an un paying patron, I had to be careful to not get caught, but in truth I was so grateful to the girls for taking the risk in putting me up. They even smuggled some food from the breakfast buffet for me, plus my mom had sent a box of snacks with my sister for me too. Even if it was super inconvenient to carry around - I had saved an absolute fortune thanks to them.
We had lounged and lazed around the entire afternoon, but the next day we organised a visit to the nearby Railay beach. This was certainly the place to be for picturesque beaches, impromptu get togethers, organised live music, and amazing seafood.
And if lazing around on soft Thai cushions, listening to ambient music or the inescapable Bob Marley is your thing, then this is for you.
We took the scenic 30 minute longboat trip there, and you always wonder if the pictures you see in brochures or online are actually carefully edited to exaggerate its beauty. But in this instance I can assure it is not the case. The beach with its magnificent surrounding limestone karst's were every bit as spectacular as I'd hoped - it was breathtaking as we approached Railay's sandy shore. Tainted slightly by the hilarious view of both Anna and Lindsay attempt to step off the swaying boat, which had us in all in fits of laughter - we had made quite an entrance.
Trips like this one with the finest of company are defined by moments like this. By savouring and appreciating the here and now, and once the laughter had died down, we all knew exactly how special this moment was, and I was so proud to have had my sister, Lindsay and Jack to share it with.
I harp on about being alone and discovering ones self, but in truth you cant beat these moments when you are amongst such important people in your life.
Other than its obvious beauty, there was an instant ambience to this beach that I have seldom felt, and I usually hide my emotions quite well. But on the inside it was difficult to hold it in this time, so I had to compose myself. From left to right the panoramic vista was so special and we set up our small camp right in the middle and slightly back covered by some tropical trees, lapping up the sun and absorbing the atmosphere and views.
I walked along the beach with my feet in the water from one stretch and back again, watching the girls smile and enjoy themselves. This was the happiest i'd felt in a long time.
After eating some delicious food mid afternoon, the anticipation began building towards the biggest draw on Railay - it's electrifying sunset!
The sky was cloudless and perfectly clear as we waited for the magic moment with eyes fixed to the horizon ahead as the sun slowly lowered, turning the skyline a brilliant orange and gold. Made all the more perfect by the bobbing boats and surrounding cliffs. All you can do is sit back like everyone else, and admire nature. Sometimes no words or pictures can describe what you see and feel, but this was a moment that I would never forget.
As the light dimmed and night fell, the beach bar staff laid out cushions, lit candles and played chilled out ambient music creating this wonderful aura that we all fell in love with.
We shared a few cocktails, whilst star gazing and eating barbecued seafood before negotiating a longboat trip back to Ao Nang where we left the same way as we arrived. With Anna and Lindsay struggling to get into the swaying boat.
The ride back was a white knuckle bumpy one and everyone got a little wet from the spraying water, especially me as I was sat right at the front of the boat.
What an unforgettable day today had been - not just because of the obvious beauty, but from the connection we all had, and the laughter too. I'd hoped by breaking away from the comfort zones and day to day routines that my sister would feel inspired to get through some tough times - and judging by the huge smile on her face, she was well on the way.

Whilst walking back to the hotel, me and the girls all promptly agreed that this wasn't going to be our last visit to Railay, and that we had to come back here before the end of the holiday.

There was no partying for us tonight, instead capping the day off with an ice cold beer before retiring for the night.