Part 58: The day trek.....
I gently woke to the refreshing sound of the waterfall and running stream in the background - it certainly beat the snores and sometimes inconsiderate back packers at some of the hostels I had stayed at. Sadly that lovely feeling lasted about 5 seconds, as my attention shifted focus to the dozen large spiders and insects still clinging to the outside of my mosquito net - desperately hoping that it did its job. Especially since I hadn't taken one single malaria tablet on my travels. This was a high risk area!
Luckily after a quick check on my arms legs, and in particular, my feet - a happy hunting ground for bugs, all seemed clear.
I never got used to that annoying burning itchy sensation from insect bites after all these months, my legs where littered with scars where I scratched the bites raw, not the wisest of things to do.
The bamboo deck was surprisingly rather comfy and my sleep was largely uninterrupted apart from the occasional bellow from monkeys,birds and gibbons. The sun shone brightly and there was a welcome coolness in the air, feeling far less sticky.
There was already a fair bit of activity at this early hour with the busy Michael making several repairs around the camp. He was chopping fresh bamboo to reinforce the dodgy bridge we passed over to get here - goodness knows it needed it.
Then It was time for a swim and a short, steep downward walk to the crystal clear water fall - Dan and Christine decided to join me.
I couldn't help but feel bad, like I was gate crashing this perfectly romantic honeymoon moment amongst amazing surroundings, although they were both so genuinely nice and never made me feel like that was the case.
Dan dived in first, followed by Christine, I on the other hand inched my way in bit by bit - it was freezing!!
'Come on buddy, its amazing' they said, till I eventually plunged myself completely in. What a way to wake up this was. They were absolutely right, it did feel amazing. The cascading waterfall stood 20 meters high so it was quite a bit of force by the time it hit me and was splashing down hard on the slippery rocks, forcing me downwards when I stood underneath - it was like a welcome massage on my aching shoulders even though I could barely keep my footing.
Dan pulled off a couple of leeches on the walk back to the camp and was fully used to them by now, he was not entirely convinced that I was though. Luckily there were no new ones stuck on me to report.
All the others were already sitting for breakfast around the table and what a jovial bunch they were too this morning, discussing all the wonderful sounds that the jungle made at night and how they couldn't sleep, unlike me. Well that and leeches. It was inevitable that everyone would have an encounter with one, it was just a question of time when.
A few more travellers arrived at the camp and we all instantly greeted them.
One eccentric looking american chap with wiry grey hair and round glasses introduced himself to me - turns out he was a writer for Lonely Planet looking for new information for the latest edition of the book. He wasted no time in asking me dozens of questions, which of course I was more than happy to answer. Taking notes and eager to know how I found out about the camp, what my feelings towards it was and my journey so far.
He also was very interested about any information on his next destination which coincidently happened to be the Philippines.
It seemed to excite him soon as I mentioned I'd spent many months there, so we spoke for ages about my experiences and any travel link information I had.
After the talk with Mr Lonely planet we had to get ready for an all day trek with Michael.
He briefed us on what we were going to do and made it absolutely clear we would be getting wet and muddy. Not long after we set out leaving the camp behind once more, walking along the river bank then waist height across the water to the other side - no one dared stop to roll up their trousers or take off their shoes this time round thankfully.
We were already soaked and well in the mood for the hike, the atmosphere was good.
A quick look over his shoulder to see everyone had made it then it was an exciting steep trek through yet more untrodden paths, heading away from the national park boundaries, the pace was true and if you didn't keep up, you'd be left behind.
Stopping only occasionally as Michael gave us further insight into the jungle life. The plantation was deep green, huge and almost Jurassic like, with giant ferns. He carefully explained the plants and pointed out a banana plant flower which he chopped down for our dinner later.
We then reached the top of this hill giving us a wonderfully open view of the jungle and mountains all around us.
But I could not help administering random checks all over my body for more leeches as my paranoia kicked in, to Dan's amusement - still the view was spectacular.
We stopped and sampled natures naturally filtered water from the bamboo, from a straw Michael made, tasted wild ginger, jungle apples and various root plants as we foraged through the jungle, even trying beetle nuts before heading deeper into the forest.
There was this angled slope which we made our way down with great difficulty, others in the group struggled but probably didn't want to kick up a fuss to Michael, so we all silently, albeit with great difficulty soldiered on through the tangled bushes and intense heat, briefly stopping to see one of the worlds largest tiger orchids, which was beautiful.
He worried a few of the group by saying he spotted a venomous pit viper!!
So as well as leeches and poisonous frogs and spiders it was another thing to avoid! - just another day in the jungle to him.
The trek was getting more and more difficult, and in most instances I could not even see the ground from waist down through the twisted branches and vines. Not the most reassuring sites I can tell you, especially if we were trying to avoid snakes etc. My legs and arms were covered in a sticky residue and I was relieved at last to reach a cool stream, giving us at least the chance to cool down.
The hike was exciting if not a little unpredictable which probably summed up Michael quite well. But there were few people I would have preferred to have had on this trek than this crazy Scotsman. Nothing fazed him and that in turn gives you confidence - I trusted him completely.
After a good days trek we headed back to the camp, wet, sticky, tired, muddy and surprisingly still no new bites - goodness knows how he found his way back; I had lost all my bearings hours ago.
A few of the previous guests had left to be replaced by some new ones. And there was a family of 4 from England - one of the siblings looked particularly interesting. On arriving at the camp the first thing she asked was if there was wifi!!!! I think this young girl was going to be in for quite a culture shock to say the least.
'Daddy Daddy, will there be Wifi' she asked.
Michael's face was a picture - he didn't need to say a single word as his expression said it all.
This young girl clung to her smart phone for dear life, looking at it constantly, waiting for updates which was a complete waste of time. There was no signal let alone wifi here - still she looked at her phone.
The father, who was a Doctor looked a nice chap as were his wife and younger son, but the young girl on the other hand. Say no more.
You could hear Michael mumbling under his breath who did nothing to hide his discontent again at this young girl. I didn't want to hang around to watch her reaction when he told her about the leeches!!!
So instead I rushed to the waterfall again for a well overdue wash.
This time, plunging straight in with out any hesitation. I cant tell you how good it felt to scrub away all that sticky residue from the trek with the ice cool water followed by a relaxing swim.
Darkness soon fell, and believe me by darkness I mean absolutely pitch black! There was only candle light around the table and kitchen area giving the jungle a very spooky charm. Dragon flies and bugs flew around the light.
Without any light pollution the stars were incredible, I could not stop staring at the sky.

Other than reading a book which was perhaps slightly anti- social there was only conversation to pass the time.
It does take a good character to not only fit in but stay here for any length of time. I warmed to it very well indeed surprisingly enough.
If you couldn't handle the insects, snakes, humidity, living without daily luxuries and no wifi then this isn't the place for you.
Admittedly the camp itself is basic, It's not fancy, and it is certainly not a pristine lodge by any stretch of the imagination.
Some people quite often stay longer than their initial visit, volunteering at the camp, and it was something that I would give some serious consideration to and I'd definitely come back one way or another.
Finally dinner was ready - more delicious fruits, and that same banana plant Michael chopped down earlier served with coconut, chilli rice and tasty banana fritters - there was more than enough to go around, even with the new guests.
We had an interesting mix of people around the table. Some retired for an early night soon after but this was a good chance to get to know Michael better over some whiskeys and we spoke in depth for hours, I found him fascinating and besides he had a wicked sense of humour.
Originating from Edinburgh, he explained his story of how he ended up in the jungle.
I concluded that perhaps to make the dynamic between him and the guests work better he would benefit from a people person sidekick. As fascinating as he was, maybe his communication skills could do with some brushing up. Still it wasn't my job to tell him that.
I did find him witty, intelligent, and thoroughly interesting though.
Today was another brilliant experience, surprising myself further with how adaptable I was.
You fast gain confidence in not only coping with out daily luxuries but how you react with very little to distract you other than your own thoughts, which can be as deafening as the jungle itself.
I eventually went to bed falling asleep with a smile on my face realising that there was not a lot left between me and that state of mind I always longed for.