This blog entry is really about Gyeong-ju but I wrote it in Busan.

After an early start on Saturday morning we caught the 5.55am train from Seoul to Gyeong-ju. About a four hour train ride to the south east of Seoul. Zoe, Hayley and everyone else in the carriagre slept most of the way (photo coming when I get back to Seoul). They had been out to a Thai bar in Seoul the night before.

Found the Han Jin Hostel where Mr and Mrs Kwon preside. We were a little puzzled about the stiff sheets but Mr Kwon informed us that they use white sheets and wash them after each guest and that they dip them in water with white powder. He was very proud of this.

gyeong-ju was the Silla capital from 57BC until 927AD. It even became the capital of the whole Korean peninsula for a while. So yes you guessed it lots of ancient things here. Burial mounds, the Far East's oldest astronomical observatory, and ancient artifacts.

Decided to explore it all by bicycle so next stop was the bicycle hire place - but wait - first we found a Paris Bagette bakery and just had to stock up again on wonderful pastries and breads for a picinic in the park. The bicycles were a bit dodgey but did the job - with a lot of help from us. Took a bit for the bicycle skills to return but we did not run into anything or fall off so all did well (few sore muscles the next day).

We picniced in the tomb park by the Far East's oldest astronomical observatory. Darkening storm clouds gave us a hurry up as we 'sped' up the hill over rocks and through mud to get to the Ice House. This turned out to be a chamber under a mound of earth. Rain drops started falling as we debated how to negotiate a steep downhill path on the bikes. Charged on and found the delightful Lotus Ponds in full bloom. In the middle was a substantial rotunda that offered shelter from the imminent storm. We spent a delightful hour or so sharing the shelter with Korean families on an afternoon outing. One of the Korean women from a group including at least 3 generations started hitting at my thigh - turns out I had commited a major faux pas by sitting with my feet under me Japanese style. During Japanese occupation of Korea they had forced the people to sit Japanese style and not cross legged which was the Korean way. We had a lot of fun comminicating with the little Korean Hayley know, the little English the Koreans knew, sign language and the help of translator on a Korean phone. They could understand Zoe and my relationship but not how Hayley fitted in. She totally confused them. After getting out the photos from home on my camera and pointing out my relationship to Hayleys mother they had a flash of understanding. Hayley learned some new Korean words to describe family relationships. It was nice sitting there, taking shelter from the rain and listening to the thunder with these Korean families. the party broke up when the storm finished and the rain had eased so we set off on our bicycles for further exploration.

There is a system of free guides at major historical sites and they enjoy sharing information about their country's history with foreigners. We have had the benefit of this on two occassions so far. You have to listen 'loosely' as often the english usage is a little different. Korean history is so old - it goes way back before European recorded history. We are learning lots but that is what travel is all about.