As we made our way to Qaanaack, one of the northern most settlements in the world it was foggy but as we got closer it lifted. I decided to go with the 'charger' group of walkers who were going to go up the hill behind the town to get views of the small icecap and glaciers covering the Qaanaak peninsular. As we wended our way through town we saw fish (Arctic char) drying and likewise seal, including intestine. Next stop was the really great local museum with rea...

The morning dawned at 4.00am after the sunset at about 1am ....but we saw neither. We were up having tea at 5.30 and I was in the gym just after 7.15 though. As the sun was shining and it was warm by arctic standards we opted for breakfast outside as we approached the icebergs of Melville Bay. The ice sheet is very close to shore hence the large number of icebergs. After breakfast we cruised in amongst them and just imbibed the craftsmanship of the natural proce...

Today was relaxation at sea which was really welcome as I felt a bit sore after yesterday's challenging walk. I woke up later than usual so went to the gym at lunchtime instead of early morning. The lectures kept our minds active if not our bodies - they covered arctic whales, birds and the history of the discovery and mapping of the arctic. Solen also discussed our plans for the next couple of days as we go ashore for our last visits to Greenland including ex...

We were awake early so John fetched two cups of tea from the lounge. After drinking mine I went to the gym and watched as the Captain picked his way through increasing large icebergs which were being shed from the Greenland Ice Sheet and emerging into the sea from the ice fjord by Ilulissat where we were heading. The group that got up to wildlife watch did spot two fin whales just before the ice started - so perhaps I should have detoured just before the gym! A...

I went to the gym at 0630 as it was light and I was awake. While rowing away on deck 6 I saw a zodiac rendezvous with our sister ship where they swopped gear. Then it was full steam ahead to Sisimiut, the second largest town in Greenland @ 5500 - the total population is 55,000. We docked alongside and disembarked for 2 hour walking tours of the city. We had lovely sunny weather and at times felt slightly overdressed in our warm clothes but every now and again a c...