After an on off nights sleep - luckily more on than off - we woke at 5.45 and with the wind still whistling around the tent I was reluctant to get up, but needs must, so I quickly ran to the loo tent - it wasn't as cold as I expected - not long after getting back the guys arrived with the hot drinks closely followed by the water for washing.
As it was very nippy outside we left our thermals on and ate breakfast with hats and gloves on - the water that they had left out in the cookhouse was frozen and because of its thickness they guessed it was lower than -15c. Warmed by more hot drinks, scrambled egg and tortilla we headed off for another days walk to our next campsite near the quarry used by the Incas for the stone they used to build their site at Ollyantaytambo.
We set off at 7.30 all wearing hats, thermals and our down jackets as it was still cold - even the flowing streams were frozen and we saw frozen canyon walls with icicles on them. We met a friendly local couple who said they didn't like this weather as it's so cold - but the lady wearing sandals then proceeded to cross a stream by walking through the water - clearly hardier souls than us!
We were soon off the cold arid highlands and walking down an equally cool canyon of old primary wood - as we emerged onto a hillside path we were still very high up on the v shaped valley side @ 3500m and the sting in the tail was a relentless but gradual climb up to 4000 m that was to come. We had a rest stop, before ascending to a high rocky outcrop, so we took the opportunity to divest the thermals and had a few snacks. We then started our ascent, I saw the horse coming from the other direction, we passed it half way ( it had come incase John had problems but today he was fine - we were all in the rhythm of ' Bobby's baby steps and he made it to the top without incident so the horse got to trot on behind.) On the top we walked along the ridge to a sun gate - built by the Incas to the mountain god....and had spectacular views of Mt Veronica through it ( today's photo.) We then wended our way down to the campsite, we could see it in the far distance below, so near but still so far, but we arrived just before 1300 and were soon tucking in to a much needed lunch. The same routine as yesterday - a bowl of water each to wash - I managed to wash my hair in my bowl - after 3 days it was a relief even though I had to use imperial leather and cool water - my hair felt so much better - then a snooze followed by tea, a little later at 1620, and dinner at 1900.
Another successful day but these days have definitely been the most strenuous walking I have ever done - the distance you could eat at sea level before mid morning but the altitude makes it strenuous - there is half the oxygen at 4000 metres than at sea level. Today's paths were also very narrow with vertical drops - John slipped on one patch of scree luckily on a bend and rolled onto the corner and was stopped by Bobby who was turning the corner - anywhere else and he could have had a long climb back. The views however were amazing - this is definitely a once in a life time experience - I wouldn't opt to do it again but am glad I have done it once!!