Today it was off into the depths of the untouched primary forest. Enroute we passed small settlements and people walking along the paths and saw bare hillsides where there had been slash and burn to create farmland for the ever increasing population. There was stark evidence everywhere of the pressure on these last bastions of original forest. If it was not for the tourist income and the need to preserve the wildlife they would surely soon disappear.
Once in the forest we saw the one thing I perhaps thought least likely even though I did know it was the breeding season - the elusive carnivore - the fossa. It's prey is lemurs and it is related to the tiger albeit it looks like an elongated otter/feline cross! We watched for several minutes as the two sat and then moved through the canopy. Albeit they climb trees it is unusual for, particularly the male, to spend so long aloft - it's amazing the lure of love or perhaps more accurately sex. Indeed a guide later apparently saw one fossa fall several metres out of the tree indicating they are not that sure footed. Later we also saw a single younger fossa seemingly stalking the black and white ruff lemurs - but to no avail! By a river we found a large brown female and much smaller green male tree frog - not quite together but it is mating season.....so probabaly won't be long! We then climbed to the top of a steep forest path - saw the view and perspiring heavily we walked back down - to see a sportive (weasel) lemur poking his head out of a crack in a tree where he was spending the day resting after his nighttime activities. ( a rare find). Next thanks to our guide who heard a rustle above we saw a family of Indiri - these are the largest lemurs, black and white in colour with a renowned and piercing call - which we got to hear as they called to another group- you could even see the red inside of their mouths. Albeit we looked for the sifaka - the dancing lemur- we saw none.
We then walked to a lake where we ate our packed lunch and watched little grebes swimming about, a Madagascan kestrel eating lunch in a tree above, vassa parrots, broad billed rollers, Madagascan bee eaters and a vanga fly past. Indeed before going back we walked to a sandstone cliff and had really good views of the bee eater colony.
Back at the hotel I had to have a dip in the really nice large pool.
After a rest and a cup of hot chocolate we ordered dinner and met our guides for another night walk. This evening we went to a quieter area with only one other couple and were in mouse lemur heaven - we saw lots - eating, jumping and generally going about their business in the undergrowth; they were at eye level or lower. You could pick them out as their eyes reflected in the torch light....the first decision was firefly or lemur - tonight it was mainly lemurs!
We also saw the dwarf furry eared 'fat tailed' lemur feeding in amongst tree foliage - so called because it stores its fat in its tail!
After a great walk we headed back to the lodge for dinner and bed.